tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4973752107932782322024-02-07T18:57:41.461+01:00La gardenia nell'occhielloAccento dandy di eleganza profumataUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger541125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-20960282127667537132019-10-09T23:24:00.000+02:002019-10-09T23:24:08.957+02:00Par amour pour elle di Lucien Ferrero (2019)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq7vWONDlL9l1OnCuhCaq5DPmuhU65FAZ5YSnzKVbgopEMsPONqJrjG4IkccAoZAo2sg4K6U6DQMJVgfjRQC6cVHNuuthjtlPnEHvpP18-tH_tVmhN75LfoGKpQt0O2JUZJRwwxWfvkhVN/s1600/pour_elle-1-600x698.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="698" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq7vWONDlL9l1OnCuhCaq5DPmuhU65FAZ5YSnzKVbgopEMsPONqJrjG4IkccAoZAo2sg4K6U6DQMJVgfjRQC6cVHNuuthjtlPnEHvpP18-tH_tVmhN75LfoGKpQt0O2JUZJRwwxWfvkhVN/s320/pour_elle-1-600x698.jpg" width="275" /></a></div>
Uno dei debutti più eccitanti durante l'ultima edizione di <a href="https://esxence.com/">Esxence – The scent of excellence</a> è stato quello di <b>Lucien Ferrero</b> con la sua linea omonima. Sofrtunatamente durante la fiera non sono riuscito ad incontrare Monsieur Ferrero, ma ho potuto scoprire le sue belle creationi grazie al suo distributore <b>Roberto Drago</b>, che due anni fa ha fondato <a href="https://www.perfumumtorino.com/">Per Fumum Torino</a>, un prolifico evento culturale che ha come protagonista il profumo e la cultura olfattiva.<br />
È lì a Torino che ho finalmente conosciuto <a href="https://lucienferreroparfums.com/">Lucien Ferrero</a>, complice il fatto che entrambi avremmo tenuto delle conferenze per <a href="https://www.osmotheque.fr/">Osmothèque Versailles</a> su due temi storici: prima la sua conferenza sugli Chypres, poi sarebbe stato il mio turno di esporre “<i>L'età d'oro della profumeria italiana</i>”. Nel frattempo abbiamo avuto modo di parlare delle sue creazioni. Per chi non ha mai sentito il suo nome, Lucien Ferrero ha collaborato molti anni a Grasse con profumieri come <b>Jean-Claude Ellena</b> e <b>Jean-Claude Gigodot</b> ed ha firmato oltre 50.000 formule per <b>Expressions Parfumées</b>, alcune delle quali sono entrate in produzione mentre altre sono diventate parte della libreria dell'azienda.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fqRBuugDlt09IcUS1LobHzT9cvRq6aDW7xs-ur1-EzHz7cYJpwgqzSdTrOeNlCcFHpq9ktsFtHgYRvFEvLPjX_Kqf51WRCT-OJKvG_73PNmA1_nnI7JqWmddi0WDQMEpMg0-gpYPPwcH/s1600/Lucien-Ferrero-perfumes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="434" data-original-width="450" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fqRBuugDlt09IcUS1LobHzT9cvRq6aDW7xs-ur1-EzHz7cYJpwgqzSdTrOeNlCcFHpq9ktsFtHgYRvFEvLPjX_Kqf51WRCT-OJKvG_73PNmA1_nnI7JqWmddi0WDQMEpMg0-gpYPPwcH/s320/Lucien-Ferrero-perfumes.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
“<i>Avevo lasciato Expressions Parfumées da </i><i>un paio d'anni e alla fine Roberto mi ha convinto a tornare in laboratorio a comporre per me stesso. Dopo quarant'anni ero stufo di creare con tanti vincoli di budget, marketing etc. Avevo ancora talmente tante idee inespresse che quando Roberto mi ha dato carta bianca, non potevo essere più felice</i>” racconta Lucien Ferrero.<br />
“<i>Lucien era così entusiasta che mi ha detto di avere una quarantina di formule nel cassetto così per tenerlo a bada l'ho convinto a partire con tre</i>” ha aggiunto Roberto Drago, che è anche il fondatore di Laboratorio Olfattivo per cui Lucien Ferrero ha firmato due nuove creazioni della Masters Collection. Questo non può che farmi felice visto che il risultato è un bellissimo trio di fragranze che esprimono la raffinatezza francese senza tempo con un pizzico di brio contemporaneo. Tutte e tre le creazioni sono straordinarie, ma ho scelto di parlarvi di <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Par Amour pour Elle</span></b>, il profumo che Lucien ha creato per sua moglie. Credetemi, ho avuto la fortuna di sentirlo sull'elegante Signora Ferrero e sono rimasto ammaliato.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzx6E9zPxuPZnIAOnsaaWHpbcePjVXD5qv1E0ElRjQ-UuqAixRd9GdQpJTGMbKbGzFXvtcuzYJiMAqz_6G8gr68dmhw5y0JTnKzpq9JErHm1Sz71n_9EzuONGt8x83f8DkMBRjw4Qn_EGd/s1600/Pentax+Calendar+by+Guy+Bourdin+1980.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="303" data-original-width="450" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzx6E9zPxuPZnIAOnsaaWHpbcePjVXD5qv1E0ElRjQ-UuqAixRd9GdQpJTGMbKbGzFXvtcuzYJiMAqz_6G8gr68dmhw5y0JTnKzpq9JErHm1Sz71n_9EzuONGt8x83f8DkMBRjw4Qn_EGd/s400/Pentax+Calendar+by+Guy+Bourdin+1980.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Il calendario Pentax di Guy Bourdin, 1980</td></tr>
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Descritto come un inno all'amore per le donne, Lucien Ferrero Par Amour pour Elle è uno straordinario floreale verde che apre inaspettatamente con la croccantezza del neroli e di un giacinto rugiadoso accentati dalla succosità sulfurea dei germogli di ribes nero che tratteggiano una scia amarognola superchic degna delle Regine truccate da <b>Heidi Morawetz</b> negli scatti di un giovane <b>Guy Bourdin</b>. Il cuore sboccia prezioso, ma mai pretenzioso e gli opulenti fiori bianchi prendono le distanze dai soliti frutti e dalle panne montate, equilibrati dalla piccantezza talcata del dianthus e dal verde intossicante della tuberosa.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN1aupp2nlpUq-edX4SrqMDXssbOqIf5F0jmJJbuMeaMgvP5K22Md3iQVZ9_O6Jnb75I0UhCbex34GBTtM8phZz_HZ5KaSg1eXrJnx23cVq_pKkWQnnfvsrQkycQQYroy50tEmv3X9DLLN/s1600/Dalida+Disco+1979.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="410" data-original-width="300" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN1aupp2nlpUq-edX4SrqMDXssbOqIf5F0jmJJbuMeaMgvP5K22Md3iQVZ9_O6Jnb75I0UhCbex34GBTtM8phZz_HZ5KaSg1eXrJnx23cVq_pKkWQnnfvsrQkycQQYroy50tEmv3X9DLLN/s320/Dalida+Disco+1979.jpg" width="234" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dalida in abito a frange per il suo disco-show, 1979</td></tr>
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Questo bouquet riecheggia la carnosità cuoiata del giglio Casablanca e quasi ti sembra di aver già incontrato questa ragazza d'oro in una vita passata alla fine degli anni '70, forse per quel glamour da dry champagne che avevano anche illustri predecessori come <b>Van Cleef & Arpels</b> <b><span style="color: #38761d;">First</span></b> di Jean-Claude Ellena ed il primo <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Jean-Louis Scherrer</span></b> creato dal profumiere di <b>IFF</b> <b>Josette Ramisse</b>. Lei ha classe da vendere ed è modernissima grazie alla scia di sandalo e resine che prende il posto di sentori stantii e cotonature aldeidate per donargli un aspetto più orientale e androgino perfetto anche su un ragazzo un po' avventuroso. Non siamo di fronte alla ragazzina insipida in cerca di approvazione e di gourmand confortevoli, ma a una donnna indipendente che non si dimentica facilmente. È <b>Dalida</b> vestita in uno Scherrer di paillettes argento che canta e balla il meglio della disco francese col suo accento italiano, ma remixata da <b>Cerrone</b> in una hit electro-house che riempie la pista. And the boys echo “<i>Laissez moi créer</i>”, ops, danser intendo…<br />
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Note di testa: neroli, giacinto selvatico, essenza di rosa bulgara, germogli di ribes nero<br />
Note di cuore: garofano dei poeti, assoluta di fior d'arancio, assoluta di gelsomino indiano, ylang-ylang<br />
Note di fondo: assoluta di tuberosa, muschi bianchi, labdano resinoide, legno di sandalo, mirra resinoide<br />
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Par Amour pour Elle ha una buona longevità ma non risulta mai invadente.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-65049208662266891442019-10-09T23:08:00.000+02:002019-10-09T23:08:21.906+02:00Lucien Ferrero Par amour pour elle (2019)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq7vWONDlL9l1OnCuhCaq5DPmuhU65FAZ5YSnzKVbgopEMsPONqJrjG4IkccAoZAo2sg4K6U6DQMJVgfjRQC6cVHNuuthjtlPnEHvpP18-tH_tVmhN75LfoGKpQt0O2JUZJRwwxWfvkhVN/s1600/pour_elle-1-600x698.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="698" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq7vWONDlL9l1OnCuhCaq5DPmuhU65FAZ5YSnzKVbgopEMsPONqJrjG4IkccAoZAo2sg4K6U6DQMJVgfjRQC6cVHNuuthjtlPnEHvpP18-tH_tVmhN75LfoGKpQt0O2JUZJRwwxWfvkhVN/s320/pour_elle-1-600x698.jpg" width="275" /></a></div>
One of the most exciting debuts during the last edition of <a href="https://esxence.com/">Esxence – The scent of excellence</a> was <b>Lucien Ferrero</b> with his eponymous line which I first reviewed for <a href="https://www.cafleurebon.com/esxence-2019-lucien-ferrero-par-amour-pour-elle-review-maitre-parfumeur-draw/">Çafleurebon</a> and now share here. Unfortunately during the show I missed Monsieur Ferrero, but I was introduced to his beautiful works by his distributor <b>Roberto Drago</b>, who established two years ago <a href="https://www.perfumumtorino.com/">Per Fumum Torino</a>, an amazing cultural event about perfume and olfactory culture.<br />
It’s down there in Turin that I got to meet <a href="https://lucienferreroparfums.com/">Lucien Ferrero</a> as we both were lecturing for the <a href="https://www.osmotheque.fr/">Osmothèque Versailles</a> about different historic topics: first his conference about Chypres, then it was my turn to talk about “<i>The golden age of Italian perfumery</i>”. Meanwhile we had some time to talk about his creations. For who’s not familiar with his name, Lucien Ferrero spent many years in Grasse with perfumers like <b>Jean-Claude Ellena</b>, and <b>Jean-Claude Gigodot</b> and signed over 50.000 formulas for <b>Expressions Parfumées</b>, some of which were produced and the others are part of the company’s library.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fqRBuugDlt09IcUS1LobHzT9cvRq6aDW7xs-ur1-EzHz7cYJpwgqzSdTrOeNlCcFHpq9ktsFtHgYRvFEvLPjX_Kqf51WRCT-OJKvG_73PNmA1_nnI7JqWmddi0WDQMEpMg0-gpYPPwcH/s1600/Lucien-Ferrero-perfumes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="434" data-original-width="450" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fqRBuugDlt09IcUS1LobHzT9cvRq6aDW7xs-ur1-EzHz7cYJpwgqzSdTrOeNlCcFHpq9ktsFtHgYRvFEvLPjX_Kqf51WRCT-OJKvG_73PNmA1_nnI7JqWmddi0WDQMEpMg0-gpYPPwcH/s320/Lucien-Ferrero-perfumes.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
“<i>After couple of years I left Expressions Parfumées, Roberto convinced me to get back to the lab and compose for myself. After almost 40 years I was tired of creating with many constraints, budget, marketing etc. I still had so many unexpressed ideas that when Roberto gave me carte blanche, I couldn’t be more happy</i>” said Lucien Ferrero.<br />
“<i>Lucien was so happy he told me he’s got like fortysomething formulas in his drawer so to keep him quite I told him let’s start with three!</i>” added Roberto Drago, who’s also the founder of Laboratorio Olfattivo for which Lucien Ferrero signed two new creations in the Masters Collection. This cannot make me happier given the result is a trio of beautiful perfumes expressing timeless French refinement with a pinch of up-to-date sparkle. All the three creations were extraordinary, but I chose to review <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Par Amour pour Elle</span></b>, a fragrance Lucien Ferrero created for his wife. Trust me, I was lucky enough to smell it on this elegant lady and was totally smitten.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzx6E9zPxuPZnIAOnsaaWHpbcePjVXD5qv1E0ElRjQ-UuqAixRd9GdQpJTGMbKbGzFXvtcuzYJiMAqz_6G8gr68dmhw5y0JTnKzpq9JErHm1Sz71n_9EzuONGt8x83f8DkMBRjw4Qn_EGd/s1600/Pentax+Calendar+by+Guy+Bourdin+1980.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="303" data-original-width="450" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzx6E9zPxuPZnIAOnsaaWHpbcePjVXD5qv1E0ElRjQ-UuqAixRd9GdQpJTGMbKbGzFXvtcuzYJiMAqz_6G8gr68dmhw5y0JTnKzpq9JErHm1Sz71n_9EzuONGt8x83f8DkMBRjw4Qn_EGd/s400/Pentax+Calendar+by+Guy+Bourdin+1980.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pentax Calendar by Guy Bourdin, 1980</td></tr>
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Described as a love hymn to women, Lucien Ferrero Par Amour pour Elle is an amazing green floral unexpectedly opening with the crispness of neroli and dewy hyacinth boosted by the sulphurous juiciness of blackcurrant buds that renders the uber-chic bittersweet trail worth of <b>Guy Bourdin</b>’s early Queens blushed by <b>Heidi Morawetz</b>. The blooming heart is precious, but never pretentious and the opulent white florals keep away from prosaic fruits and cream, balanced by the powdery piquancy of dianthus and tuberose’s poisonous greenness.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN1aupp2nlpUq-edX4SrqMDXssbOqIf5F0jmJJbuMeaMgvP5K22Md3iQVZ9_O6Jnb75I0UhCbex34GBTtM8phZz_HZ5KaSg1eXrJnx23cVq_pKkWQnnfvsrQkycQQYroy50tEmv3X9DLLN/s1600/Dalida+Disco+1979.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="410" data-original-width="300" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN1aupp2nlpUq-edX4SrqMDXssbOqIf5F0jmJJbuMeaMgvP5K22Md3iQVZ9_O6Jnb75I0UhCbex34GBTtM8phZz_HZ5KaSg1eXrJnx23cVq_pKkWQnnfvsrQkycQQYroy50tEmv3X9DLLN/s320/Dalida+Disco+1979.jpg" width="234" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dalida in a fringe dress for her disco-show, 1979</td></tr>
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This bouquet echoes the leathery flesh of Casablanca lilies and you swear you smelled this golden girl in another life in the late 1970s sharing the dry champagne glamour of predecessors like Jean-Claude Ellena’s <b>Van Cleef & Arpels</b> <b><span style="color: #38761d;">First</span></b> and the <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Jean-Louis Scherrer</span></b> fragrant debut by <b>IFF</b> perfumer <b>Josette Ramisse</b>. She’s classy as ever and modern thanks to a mysterious balmy sandalwood sweeping away the mustiness and the aldehydes hairdos and lending a more androgynous oriental vibe that makes it wearable also by adventurous guys. She’s not the average wishi-washy girl looking for comfort gourmands and approval, she’s the independent woman you won’t forget. It’s <b>Dalida</b> dressed in a Scherrer silver sequins gown, singing and dancing the best of the French disco-hits in her Italian accent, but remixed by <b>Cerrone</b> to an electro-house hit filling the dance floors. And the boys echo “<i>Laissez moi créer</i>”, ops, danser I mean…<br />
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Top notes: neroli, wild hyacinth, Bulgarian rose essence, blackcurrant buds; Heart notes: Sweet William, orange blossom absolute, Indian Jasmine absolute, ylang-ylang; Base notes: tuberose absolute, white musks, labdanum resinoid, sandalwood, myrrh resinoid<br />
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Disclosure: This review was based on a sample of Lucien Ferrero Par Amour pour Elle received from Kaon, Lucien Ferrero distributor during Esxence. Par Amour pour Elle has good longevity but is never overpowering with an average sillage.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-38340762540160318522019-04-08T23:16:00.000+02:002019-04-08T23:16:08.244+02:00Whispers about Artistic Perfumery: un sondaggio per Esxence 11<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ521FP091ky0X7Sx3XRnSIOymj04yiFeNeU1BOcE-2mW10GbrhtNraL6Yg_nGu8XAssmkAodMFMLhPq-SDrELdhA9XCdf_YaDz7edgCFo1IKLKlfRFhcgG6E4qPRhWJQaWAZM62SmT1hq/s1600/02+Esxence+Inspiration+Flow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="378" data-original-width="800" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ521FP091ky0X7Sx3XRnSIOymj04yiFeNeU1BOcE-2mW10GbrhtNraL6Yg_nGu8XAssmkAodMFMLhPq-SDrELdhA9XCdf_YaDz7edgCFo1IKLKlfRFhcgG6E4qPRhWJQaWAZM62SmT1hq/s320/02+Esxence+Inspiration+Flow.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Come ogni anno oltre ad essere fiera di riferimento della profumeria di nicchia, <span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Esxence - The scent of Excellence vuole porsi anche come momento di confronto e discussione per fare il punto della situazione su quello che è diventato questo mercato realmente, sulla sua percezione e su quali siano gli scenari e le sfide future che si intravedono.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ234ArKRhahcWv8HoqATEX1Ao12OxKPp_STIPzgLcqgMl9-Y1An5IUoo1ZVZ6mHvXaKMXVD4D3MWJ6lkqgvq9O-s7ftNZo8e1HO02t4ZGmpOH373_Mnq6TZah-K4wVqaWF0MPwua_14VW/s1600/Anonymous+perfume.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="852" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ234ArKRhahcWv8HoqATEX1Ao12OxKPp_STIPzgLcqgMl9-Y1An5IUoo1ZVZ6mHvXaKMXVD4D3MWJ6lkqgvq9O-s7ftNZo8e1HO02t4ZGmpOH373_Mnq6TZah-K4wVqaWF0MPwua_14VW/s320/Anonymous+perfume.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; display: inline !important; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">La XI edizione di Esxence si conferma sempre più interattività grazie alla tecnologia e per ascoltare ancora di più la voce del consumatore il suo fondatore Silvio Levi, nonché Amminstratore della storica società di distribuzione Calé, ha indetto un sondaggio pubblico a cui potete partecipare dicendo la vostra riguardo all'attuale stato del settore della Profumeria Artistica. Si tratta di un questionario semplice che tutti possono completare in meno di 10 minuti e le risposte sono completamente anonime nel pieno rispetto delle normative sulla privacy (GDPR).</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">I risultati dell'indagine verranno divulgati e discussi poi ad Esxence il 26 Aprile <span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">durante </span><span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">il workshop</span>: <br />“<i>Whispers about Artistic Perfumery: the online audiences perception. Unveiling needs and expectations related to Artistic Perfumery through interviews to Esxence's contacts and media partners, monitoring of online conversations and search engine trends</i>".</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Per partecipare al sondaggio, seguite il link qui di seguito:</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><a href="https://it.surveymonkey.com/r/SURVEONTHEWORLDOFARTISTICPERFUMERY">https://it.surveymonkey.com/r/SURVEONTHEWORLDOFARTISTICPERFUMERY</a></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-15120339396910670192019-01-16T00:37:00.001+01:002019-01-16T12:18:17.695+01:00Vero Kern (1940 - 2018) Un omaggio personale<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdPRNrQ7XLorPgLC9knTEGZaCYdQjL_t28kY9zFSfnSLMD_XiF-eWjlHmEMpp9AL9iWH1KR-rnLA6IOP0_7DTV7-ksIFcw4n2X1gDPNCC03bz6SKViwrBW8YnZMQbfR-DrinU_sYNLaa6y/s1600/Vero+Kern+01.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="766" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdPRNrQ7XLorPgLC9knTEGZaCYdQjL_t28kY9zFSfnSLMD_XiF-eWjlHmEMpp9AL9iWH1KR-rnLA6IOP0_7DTV7-ksIFcw4n2X1gDPNCC03bz6SKViwrBW8YnZMQbfR-DrinU_sYNLaa6y/s400/Vero+Kern+01.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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Queste pagine sono dove ho scritto la prima volta di Vero Kern, dove lei ha letto del mio amore per le sue creazioni. Ad un mese dalla sua scomparsa, condivido anche qui un personale omaggio apparso su <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/tribute-visionary-artist-vero-kern-1940-2018/">CaFleureBon</a>.<br />
Circa dodici anni fa quando ho iniziato a scrivere di profumi, era partita la prima ondata di grandi riformulazioni secondo le direttive IFRA. Sommiamo poi lo scenario in cui le case di profumo storiche erano assorbite dalle grandi multinazionali come LVMH per farne delle macchine da soldi, (e per favore tenete presente che un salto generazionale stava imponendo un approccio più igienista dove lo spruzzo aveva abolito il toccare il profumo). Non è difficile immaginare quindi che quel poco che rimaneva dell'età d'oro della profumeria stava gettando nello sconforto tutti gli appassionati di profumeria.<br />
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Ho sempre associato Vero Kern all'idea di un faro guida e penso che lei avesse una luce particolare; ho letto diverse persone che l'hanno amata farne menzione nei loro ricordi sui social network in questi giorni. Ricordo ancora la prima volta che l'ho incontrata a Milano, era il 2010: inconfondibilmente glam-rock con le sue scarpe leopardate, debuttava con la sua linea di eau de parfum sotto l'egida della neonata distribuzione Campomarzio 70. Ero alle prime fiere ed incontrarla, parlare con lei dei suoi estratti e del modo in cui aveva trasformato quelle dense pozioni magiche nelle edp grazie ad un accordo di passion fruit che aggiungesse brillantezza fu una rivelazione per me.<br />
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Vero ed io abbiamo parlato per la prima volta dei classici, e poi ne abbiamo riparlato in varie occasioni perché Vero Kern era prima di tutto un'entusiasta collezionista di fragranze vintage — nel modo in cui sento di esserlo anche io: per farle proprie, non per possederle. Sentendo le sue creazioni, si può percepire la profonda conoscenza che aveva dei capolavori del passato, probabilmente stimolata dalla sua Maestra Monique Schlienger che fu allieva di Jean Carles ed ha formato Vero come profumiere a Parigi sul finire degli anni '90. Vero però è andata ben oltre: unendo una visione estetica fortemente avant-garde ad un perfezionismo maniacale, dopo cinque anni di lavoro se n'è uscita con il trio fondamentale di estratti Kiki – Rubj – Onda reinventando una nuova età dell'oro secondo il suo stile. Sempre “à rebours”, in controtendenza, la rebel-rebel di Zurigo ha anche riportato in auge il vezzo glamour della vecchia Hollywood di applicare dal tappo di vetro il profumo sui punti caldi come l'estremo lusso del quotidiano, mandando così in visibilio tutti noi perfumisti. <br />
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Vero Kern era davvero un bel tipo: si era perfezionata prima per tanti anni come aromatologa e infine era diventata profumiere a sessant'anni. Era la prova vivente di quello che significa “invecchiare in gloria”, non solo fisicamente. Erano chiare le sue idee di cosa fosse la bellezza e lo lasciava intendere condividendo coi suoi contatti foto di modelli come la settantenne superchic Veruschka von Lehndorff. Vero era sempre on the road, condividendo sinceramente e generosamente il suo percorso, sempre proiettata in avanti e affamata di vita fino all'ultimo. Anche l'ultima volta che ci siamo incontrati per un cappuccino assieme, abbiamo parlato del futuro, della continua evoluzione del mercato e di come si sentiva motivata dal percorso tutto indipendente che aveva tracciato in dieci anni di uniche, fragranti affermazioni. Dove oggi anche l'ultima delle copie finge di essere arte nella profumeria di nicchia, nel lasciarci capolavori indimenticabili come il seducente vetiver di Onda o il verde leggendario di Mito, Vero Kern ha sempre dichiarato con franchezza che il profumo non è arte, ma che può essere parte di un'opera d'arte. Era così entusiasta quando il Museo Mudac di Losanna l'aveva invitata ad esporre Onda durante la mostra “Nirvana – Strange forms of pleasure”, che mi aveva confessato di aver capito che era qualcosa che le dava grande soddisfazione ultimamente, riuscire a far dialogare le sue creazioni in contesti artistici la faceva star bene.<br />
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Ad un profumiere e un'amica che ci ha lasciato una preziosa eredità. <br />
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Grazie di tutto Vero. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqYNoP9ArHi1wKWzMazuElOYcadmhfvh2rNGoAR2YMiR6He6axq2chFmvgBbxkkZJD76wzYHrregRGy95-TWaa7QoFBsQdFG4nMRyCQt2JdnCiXmXmGJr8Ml5VJPEV-UMirExULVrBevwm/s1600/Vero-Kern-perfumer-535x535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="535" data-original-width="535" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqYNoP9ArHi1wKWzMazuElOYcadmhfvh2rNGoAR2YMiR6He6axq2chFmvgBbxkkZJD76wzYHrregRGy95-TWaa7QoFBsQdFG4nMRyCQt2JdnCiXmXmGJr8Ml5VJPEV-UMirExULVrBevwm/s400/Vero-Kern-perfumer-535x535.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Esxence 2016 - Annusare con te era sempre un piacere Vero</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-76084647023056842342019-01-16T00:37:00.000+01:002019-01-16T00:37:02.462+01:00Vero Kern (1940 – 2018) A personal tribute<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdPRNrQ7XLorPgLC9knTEGZaCYdQjL_t28kY9zFSfnSLMD_XiF-eWjlHmEMpp9AL9iWH1KR-rnLA6IOP0_7DTV7-ksIFcw4n2X1gDPNCC03bz6SKViwrBW8YnZMQbfR-DrinU_sYNLaa6y/s1600/Vero+Kern+01.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="766" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdPRNrQ7XLorPgLC9knTEGZaCYdQjL_t28kY9zFSfnSLMD_XiF-eWjlHmEMpp9AL9iWH1KR-rnLA6IOP0_7DTV7-ksIFcw4n2X1gDPNCC03bz6SKViwrBW8YnZMQbfR-DrinU_sYNLaa6y/s400/Vero+Kern+01.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here's where I first wrote about Vero Kern, and where she first read my love for her creations. So ane month after Vero left us, it's time to share my personal tribute appeared on <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/tribute-visionary-artist-vero-kern-1940-2018/">CaFleureBon</a>.<br />
About twelve years ago when I started writing about perfume, the first massive wave of IFRA compliancy reformulations was happening. Add to this the scenario where legacy houses were acquired by big corporations like LVMH to make cash cows out of them, (and please keep in mind a generational gap was thrown in the midst with a more spray-don’t touch hygienic approach). So it’s not difficult to imagine what was left behind of the golden age of perfumery was casting a pall on perfume lovers.<br />
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I always associated Vero Kern with the idea of a guiding light, and I think she had this particular halo; I also see people who loved her mentioning this in their tributes on the social networks today. I still remember the first time I met her in Milan in 2010: looking unmistakably glam-rock in her leopard print shoes, she was debuting her eau de parfum line under the newborn Campomarzio 70 distribution. It was my first show and meeting her, talking to her about her extraits line and the way she reworked the thick bewitching potions through a passion fruit accord in her EDPS to add sparkle was an epiphany to me.<br />
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Vero and I first talked about the classics and we talked many times about that subject, because Vero Kern was first of all an enthusiastic collector of vintages— the way I feel: to hold, not to have. Smelling her creations, you can feel the deep understanding she had of masterpieces from the past, probably fostered also by her Maestra Monique Schlienger who came out of the school of Jean Carles and trained Vero as a perfumer in Paris in the late 1990s. Vero went beyond this though, joining a strong avant-garde aesthetic vision to a perfectionist obsession, she came out after her five years of work with the pivotal trio Kiki – Rubj – Onda extraits reinventimg a new golden age of her own style. Always “à rebours”, the rebel-rebel from Zurich also revived the Old Hollywood glamour style of applying perfume on pulse points with a glass stopper as the ultimate everyday luxury sending all us perfumistas bananas. <br />
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Vero Kern was indeed one of a kind: perfecting her craft first through many years as an aromatologist, and becoming a perfumer in her 60s. She was the living proof of what “aging gracefully” means, not only physically. She had clear ideas of what beauty looks like, sharing through her network pics of role models like the uberchic Veruschka von Lehndorff in her 70s. Vero was always on the road sincerely and generously sharing her path, always forward thinking and embracing life till the last day. Also the last time we met, while having a cappuccino together, we talked about the future, the ever-changing market evolution and how she felt empowered by having traced her own independent path in ten years of unique fragrant statements. While even the copycat scents nowadays pretend to be art in the niche perfumery, it was Vero Kern who gave us unforgettable masterpieces like the ravishing vetiver in Onda or the legendary verdancy of Mito always humbly stated that perfume was not an art, but could be part of an artwork. She was so amazed when the Lousanne Mudac Museum invited her to display Onda inside the exhibition “Nirvana – Strange forms of pleasure”, she told me she understood this was what she enjoyed most of all lately, to be able to frame her creations in artistic contexts, that made she feel at home.<br />
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She was a perfumer, a friend and she has left us her precious fragrant heritage. <br />
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Grazie di tutto Vero (thank you for everything Vero). <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqYNoP9ArHi1wKWzMazuElOYcadmhfvh2rNGoAR2YMiR6He6axq2chFmvgBbxkkZJD76wzYHrregRGy95-TWaa7QoFBsQdFG4nMRyCQt2JdnCiXmXmGJr8Ml5VJPEV-UMirExULVrBevwm/s1600/Vero-Kern-perfumer-535x535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="535" data-original-width="535" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqYNoP9ArHi1wKWzMazuElOYcadmhfvh2rNGoAR2YMiR6He6axq2chFmvgBbxkkZJD76wzYHrregRGy95-TWaa7QoFBsQdFG4nMRyCQt2JdnCiXmXmGJr8Ml5VJPEV-UMirExULVrBevwm/s400/Vero-Kern-perfumer-535x535.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Esxence 2016 - Smelling with you was always amazing Vero</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-55271462165804149492018-08-14T12:37:00.000+02:002018-08-14T15:00:27.992+02:00Gattopardo di Antonio Alessandria (2017)<span lang="">"<em>Siamo vecchi, Chevalley, vecchissimi. Sono venticinque secoli almeno che portiamo sulle spalle il peso di magnifiche civiltà eterogenee</em>" Il Gattopardo, Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa</span><br />
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<span lang=""><span lang=""><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7meqE5Y7ZhaxV1s0MB9y32mEUZERa7wbHgfnHQgmtPpjLWxfBB3ICENeR9XA5S-k3P88VJO6GZYdPJySDWKjG_QBxNB4fiBmSnKwcdE3Ihr8Slbur5Y_zQie_eaUjh-9e8JAczn1nhVFq/s1600/Gattopardo+Ad.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="443" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7meqE5Y7ZhaxV1s0MB9y32mEUZERa7wbHgfnHQgmtPpjLWxfBB3ICENeR9XA5S-k3P88VJO6GZYdPJySDWKjG_QBxNB4fiBmSnKwcdE3Ihr8Slbur5Y_zQie_eaUjh-9e8JAczn1nhVFq/s320/Gattopardo+Ad.jpg" width="239" /></a></span></span></div>
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Fra I legni il patchouli è certo il più esuberante, e questo carattere ruggente si odia o si ama proprio come accade con i grandi uomini. Fra le nuove proposte sentite a Firenze durante Pitti Fragranze (finalmente disponibile), quella che ha fatto irrimediabilmente perdere la testa agli amanti del patchouli come me è <strong>Gattopardo</strong>, l’ultima creazione di <strong>Antonio Alessandria</strong> che ci porta nuovamente nella sua amata Sicilia, stavolta a passo di danza.<br />
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Il ritmo è quello del celebre valzer brillante di Verdi che Nino Rota volle per la pellicola di Luchino Visconti. L’incedere ed il ruggito sono quelli del leonino Principe di Salina che regge al suo braccio la bella Angelica, luminosa come le zagare fra i suoi capelli. Vedendo volteggiare Claudia Cardinale e Burt Lancaster chi non si è innamorato perdutamente di Palermo? Chi non ha sognato per un attimo di tornare al 1860 fra gli ospiti al gran ballo nei fastosi saloni di Palazzo Valguarnera-Gangi, vestigia di un glorioso passato? </span></span><a name='more'></a><span lang=""><span lang=""><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf73Gj6EqJSQxS-QpBV6752fsqIbbdFaRXcN9f0-xNqNvKLjK2w5eI-QmgGjyuuqB6vEiCfG4TG-A-9-7jDeJv_ilm2Htu52xRLD9wQ5iZfaMtpPg6v04azBCZXglNJ-pkdSKnI36MJWlH/s1600/Palermo_Villa_Montalbo_Boscogrande.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1112" data-original-width="1558" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf73Gj6EqJSQxS-QpBV6752fsqIbbdFaRXcN9f0-xNqNvKLjK2w5eI-QmgGjyuuqB6vEiCfG4TG-A-9-7jDeJv_ilm2Htu52xRLD9wQ5iZfaMtpPg6v04azBCZXglNJ-pkdSKnI36MJWlH/s320/Palermo_Villa_Montalbo_Boscogrande.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Villa Boscogrande a Palermo</td></tr>
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Appena vaporizzato, Gattopardo ci da subito il benvenuto con un bicchierino di rum all’ombra dei fragranti giardini di Donnafugata, nell’agrumeto o sotto al fico che confonde la sua linfa mediterranea con l’aroma decadente e raffinato dei gerani. L’inebriante freschezza argentea ci invita a salire le scalinate sino all’androne della villa nobiliare, preannunciando l’eleganza impassibile del Principe di Salina, patriarca tanto ruvido quanto affascinante come il patchouli che ora si fa protagonista assoluto. Tutti gli occhi sono su di lui, mentre l’eco dei passi, i bisbigli e le sete fruscianti sono interrotti solo dall’orchestra che accorda gli strumenti. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieFKU5bQjeXVA1L0PbM7EnMriOPTyJ0v3eag3vzWmnJDV_0xtgl17Br5p7hRjenmYxfrZZPfsB4WdRAMjw3TYnFIAzufqCsV79VKaLcTUUR9HC3Rgq6ZAV5t2PlcEWXgPWmaAeKNbmEYyC/s1600/Gattopardo+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="1600" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieFKU5bQjeXVA1L0PbM7EnMriOPTyJ0v3eag3vzWmnJDV_0xtgl17Br5p7hRjenmYxfrZZPfsB4WdRAMjw3TYnFIAzufqCsV79VKaLcTUUR9HC3Rgq6ZAV5t2PlcEWXgPWmaAeKNbmEYyC/s400/Gattopardo+02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0tOvMXN4289_LjjKvmQU47NSX7mTRRKzFoy0MKT5gP-RYLXzGx9K5zz2IqpGyhdDOQV22Zvb4k9sP7QFoIJgiOGmXq-CindbnBZ52lATI4b1xyfeJTyzWwrx-NxT78gHoQcUIAzyscTg/s1600/Gattopardo+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="552" data-original-width="736" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0tOvMXN4289_LjjKvmQU47NSX7mTRRKzFoy0MKT5gP-RYLXzGx9K5zz2IqpGyhdDOQV22Zvb4k9sP7QFoIJgiOGmXq-CindbnBZ52lATI4b1xyfeJTyzWwrx-NxT78gHoQcUIAzyscTg/s320/Gattopardo+15.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Poi incalza il valzer e le coppie volteggiano fra gli sguardi di gran dame col ventaglio, cavalieri in guanti bianchi e mille candele. Come Don Fabrizio fresco di toeletta, anche il legno riveste la sua virilità di un abito setoso di cera d’api. Si dice Visconti pretendesse ad ogni ripresa che le migliaia di candele sul set fossero tutte rinnovate per regalare alla scena il calore della luce naturale. Qui si percepisce tutta la regalità mielata di questo oro che inonda di bagliori l’iris, velo prezioso a impallidire le gote e i decolleté, che fluttua ad ogni passo come l’abito di Angelica disegnato da Piero Tosi.<br />
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Sul finale il banchetto è servito: fra pizzi e porcellane finissime le delizie della tavola sicula affiorano nel fondo. Ciò che rimane sulla pelle per molte ore è un abbraccio sontuoso e nostalgico che dietro la fermezza del legno di cedro svela la gentilezza d’animo del principe e l’amore per la tradizione con la dolcezza della pasta di mandorle. Non manca nemmeno la seduzione "esotica" e croccante delle praline di nocciole con una spolverata di cacao amaro, frutto dell’incontro fra la Sicilia e le tante culture che l’hanno attraversata qui distillate in una <em>recherce du temps perdu</em> all’essenza dell’eleganza italiana più autentica e nobile.<br />
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Note di testa: bergamotto, latte di fico, accordo di whisky<br />Note di cuore: geranio, iris, patchouli<br />Note di fondo: benzoino, nocciola, mandorla, polvere di cacao, cera d’api, legno di cedro, note muschiate e ambrate</span><br />
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Questa recensione è stata pubblicata in origine sul blog di <a href="https://www.studiolfattivo.it/blog/gattopardo-antonio-alessandria-parfums/?_sm_nck=1">Studio Olfattivo</a></span><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-76391250833797493742018-08-14T12:18:00.003+02:002018-08-14T14:59:54.804+02:00Antonio Alessandria Gattopardo (2017)<span lang="">"<em>We are old, Chevalley, very old. For more than twenty-five centuries we've been bearing the weight of a superb and heterogeneous civilization</em>" The Leopard, Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa<br />
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Among woods, definitely patchouli is the most exuberant, and this roaring temper is love or hate just like it happens with great men. Among the new proposals seen in Florence at Pitti Fragranze (finally available), the one that drove patchouli fans fall like me hopelessly mad about it is <strong>Gattopardo</strong>, <strong>Antonio Alessandria</strong>‘s latest creation that brings us one more time dancing our way to his beloved Sicily.<br />
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The rhythm is given by the famous Verdi’s brilliant waltz Nino Rota wanted for Luchino Visconti’s movie. The poise and the lion’s roar are the ones of the Prince of Salina giving his arm to the beautiful Angelica, luminous like the orange blossoms running through her hair. Looking at Claudia Cardinale and Burt Lancaster twirling around, who’s not fallen helplessly in love with Palermo? Who’s not dreamt for a while to turn back time to 1860 as a guest of the great ball in the opulent halls of Valguarnera-Gangi Palace, vestige of a glorious past?</span><a name='more'></a><span lang=""><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Villa Boscogrande in Palermo</td></tr>
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Just sprayed, Gattopardo immediately welcomes us with a shot of whisky through the fragrant gardens in Donnafugata, in a citrus fruit plot or under the fig tree mixing its Mediterranean sap with the refined, decadent aroma of geraniums. The inebriating silver freshness invites us to climb the stairs to the entrance of the noble villa, forecasting the stolid elegance of the Prince of Salina, patriarch as rough as charming like the patchouli now taking the full stage. All eyes are on him while the echo of the steps, murmurs and the rustling silks are stopped only by the orchestra tuning the instruments. <br />
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As the waltz starts couples twirl under the look of great ladies with fans, white gloved cavaliers and thousand burning candles. Like Don Fabrizio just out of the bath tub, also this wood dresses its manliness in a silky beeswax attire. It’s said that Visconti demanded all the thousand candles were replaced at every shooting to give the set all the warmth of the natural light. Here you can get all this regal honeyed gold flooding iris in glitters, like a precious veil whitening cheekbones and necklines, floating at every step like Angelica’s dress designed by Piero Tosi.<br />
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In the end the dinner is served: through laces and fine porcelain the delights of the Sicilian table break through the basenotes. What lasts on skin for many hours is a sumptuous, nostalgic embrace revealing under the strength of cedarwood the noble soul of the Prince and the love for traditions with the sweetness of almond pastry. Not to be missed, the "exotic" crunchy seduction or bitter cocoa sprinkled hazelnut pralines bears traces of the Sicilian cultural melting pot distilled here in a <em>recherche du temps perdu</em> that’s the essence of the most authentic and noble Italian elegance.<br />
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Topnotes: bergamot, fig milk, whisky accord<br />
Heartnotes: geranium, iris, patchouli<br />
Basenotes: benzoin, hazelnut, almond, cocoa powder, beeswax, cedarwood, musky and ambery notes</span><br />
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This review was originally published in collaboration with <a href="https://www.studiolfattivo.it/blog/gattopardo-antonio-alessandria-parfums/?_sm_nck=1">Studio Olfattivo</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-73803314234954856402018-05-23T00:49:00.000+02:002018-05-23T00:49:14.793+02:00Premio Accademia del Profumo 2018<div class="separator" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; clear: both; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Per il secondo anno consecutivo, ho avuto il piacere di essere invitato a partecipare al prestigioso Premio <a href="http://www.accademiadelprofumo.it/">Accademia del Profumo</a> che si è tenuto il <b>15 maggio 2018</b>. Ogni anno l'organizzazione ha cura di scegliere dove si terrà la cerimonia <span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">per porre l'accento sul profumo come arte, creatività e saper fare e quest'anno il Gala del Premio </span>Accademia del Profumo 2018 è entrato per una notte nel monumentale tempio dell'arte contemporanea più d'avanguardia: il <a href="http://www.hangarbicocca.org/en/">Pirelli Hangar Bicocca</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 0px;"><span style="padding-top: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 16px; padding-top: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Giorgia Surina via Accademia del Profumo<span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">©</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Situato nella sede post-industriale sorta fra gli anni ‘20s e gli anni ‘60s per testare grandi macchine ad elevata potenza, con i suoi 9500 metri quadri e 30 metri di altezza, questo ex-hangar ora è una cattedrale diventata famosa per ospitare l'installazione permanente di <b>Anselm Kiefer</b> <b>I sette palazzi celesti</b>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Provate solo a pensare quanto sia emozionante poter cenare con le stelle della profumeria di fronte a questa gigantesca opera d'arte. Inoltre questo evento è importante perché raduna tutti gli attori italiani ed internazionali del mercato della profumeria (marchi, distribuzione e giornalisti) e per scorgere ospiti dal monto delle arti, dalla cultura e dallo spettacolo. Visto che a scegliere il miglior profumo maschile e femminile dell'anno sono i consumatori (con circa 162.000 votiraccolti nei punti vendita nel 2018) questo è anche il momento utile per tracciare le tendenze e i gusti del mercato di massa in Italia.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Luciano Bertinelli e Giulia Bevilacqua</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">via Accademia del Profumo©</span><b style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 0px;"></b><i style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 0px;"></i><u style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 0px;"></u><sub style="font-size: 8.86px; padding-top: 0px;"></sub><sup style="font-size: 8.86px; padding-top: 0px;"></sup><strike style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 0px;"></strike></div>
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La serata di Gala del Premio<span style="font-family: inherit;"> Accademia del Profumo 2018 Gala è stata condotta dal presidente di Accademia del Profumo <b>Luciano Bertinelli</b> (che è anche l'amministratore delegato di Salvatore Ferragamo Parfums) assieme all'attrice <b>Giorgia Surina</b> abbigliata in un raffinato abito di tulle rosa pallido. Sottolineando il forte impegno di Accademia del Profumo nel diffondere la cultura del profumo, Bertinelli ha anche introdotto la sfida del prossimo anno.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Frutto della collaborazione con <b>Cosmetica Italia </b>(l'associazione delle aziende cosmetiche italiane) e <b>Cosmoprof</b> (la più importante fiera italiana di cosmetica), la mostra “<i>Leonardo Genio e Bellezza</i>” celebrerà l'amore per la bellezza ed il benessere che ha segnato l'opera del genio toscano e del suo tempo.</span></div>
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<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Alberto Morillas, Aurelien Guichard, Sophie Labbé, Cecile Matton, Antoine Maisondieu, Veronique Nyberg, Luca Maffei, Antoine Lie (da sinistra a destra)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Il divertimento al Premio Accademia del Profumo 2018 è iniziato con il premio per il miglior packaging consegnato la vincitore dall'irriverente pittore pugliese <b>Paolo Troilo</b>. La giuria tecnica che conferisce la maggior parte dei premi ha incoronato <b>miglior packaging m</b><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">aschile e femminile </span> rispettivamente Y<b>ves Saint Laurent <span style="color: #38761d;">Y for men</span></b> e <b>Hermès <span style="color: #38761d;">Twilly</span></b>. Il premio al <b>miglior profumo maschile perfume</b> è andato al cuoiato composto da <b>Daniela Andrier</b> e <b>Antoine Maisondieu</b> <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Parfum</span></b> mentre la controparte femminile è stata assegnata all'intensa fragranza floreale di <b>Alberto Morillas</b> <b>Gucci <span style="color: #38761d;">Bloom</span></b>. Un'ovazione speciale è stata tributata a tutti i profumieri presenti (fra loro Antoine Lie, Veronique Nyberg, Luca Maffei, Aurelien Guichard e Cécile Matton). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Il Maestro Profumiere di </span><b>Firmenich</b> Alberto Morillas era la stella più brillante al Premio Accademia del Profumo 2018 però e ho avuto il grande onore di potergli parlare e di chiedergli com'è nato Gucci Bloom.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">“<i>Parto sempre da zero quando compongo un profumo, non ci sono idee o formule preconfezionate. In questo caso mentre cercavo di immergermi nel mondo creativo di Alessandro Michele, stavo raggiungendo l'India per la raccolta del gelsomino Sambac. Mentre annusavo i fiori, mi sono reso conto che i fiori ancora chiusi avevano un profumo molto diverso da quelli completamente aperti. Così ho deciso di cambiare il processo ed ho chiesto di poter avere due estrazioni separate che ho poi miscelato per ottenere questa scia così femminile</i>” ha confessato Morillas.</span></div>
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<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkUQUm4qbCW9hNMaMFK7aTqShBGU3WPPOEdC2WfiM7x9Dxx6ZZ8b7vwL4ca3HWji8Y48sQm7TFMVYIlU2gOlERPnnkTaYvkOmZ9ksgtdYBytg6J9Rc6-o6A3sgA_w2Q_8qGjKk-jJJ3Sew/s1600/14+Me_Morillas.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1280" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkUQUm4qbCW9hNMaMFK7aTqShBGU3WPPOEdC2WfiM7x9Dxx6ZZ8b7vwL4ca3HWji8Y48sQm7TFMVYIlU2gOlERPnnkTaYvkOmZ9ksgtdYBytg6J9Rc6-o6A3sgA_w2Q_8qGjKk-jJJ3Sew/s320/14+Me_Morillas.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">con Alberto Morillas</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Si può dire che la tendenza floreale sia oramai nel pieno anche nel mass-market visto che è stato consegnato un premio speciale a <b>Olivier Polge</b> (che sfortunatamente non era presente) per <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Gabrielle</span> Chanel</b> che ha totalizzato un record di vendite nei primi sei mesi dal suo lancio nel 2017. Una speciale giuria VIP composta fra gli altri da Paolo Troilo, dall'attrice <b>Giulia Bevilacqua</b> e dalla designer <b>Francesca Versace</b> (la figlia di Santo Versace) ha assegnato a Gabrielle <span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Chanel anche il premio per </span>la <b>miglior comunicazione </b>che vede protagonista l'attrice <b>Kristen Stewart</b>. <span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Il </span><b>miglior profumo esclusivo da un grande marchio</b> è andato alle morbide spezie di <b>Armani Privé <span style="color: #38761d;">Iris Céladon</span></b> mentre <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Tuberose in Blue</span></b> di <b>Altaia</b> ha ottenuto il premio per il <b>miglior profumo artistico</b>.</span></div>
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<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrKp2geVOVhAsNtgJNRnialmAgAEZbfmMd6kJRMuMhKrzvQlHH9bjkpwhVW3fvPRIRWagdltc-SGpw0cSJO-_R53qjwtqQWbflQ1eTyoOnWwMmNKxW878p84zaP1MJILELUT__oiKRotcE/s1600/18+Table.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="819" data-original-width="1092" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrKp2geVOVhAsNtgJNRnialmAgAEZbfmMd6kJRMuMhKrzvQlHH9bjkpwhVW3fvPRIRWagdltc-SGpw0cSJO-_R53qjwtqQWbflQ1eTyoOnWwMmNKxW878p84zaP1MJILELUT__oiKRotcE/s400/18+Table.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Dall'invito all'addobbo floreale della cena, il rosso segna il Premio 2018</span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Premio Accademia del Profumo 2018 - I VINCITORI</span></b></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: inherit;">Giuria popolare dei consumatori</span></u></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Miglior profumo femminile dell'anno: <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Narciso Rodriguez For Her Fleur Musc</span></b> (Sonia Constant)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Miglior profumo maschile dell'anno</span>: <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Dior Homme Sport</span></b> (François Demachy)</span></li>
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<u><span style="font-family: inherit;">Giuria tecnica</span></u></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Miglior creazione olfattiva femminile</span>: <b>Gucci <span style="color: #38761d;">Bloom</span></b> (Alberto Morillas)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Miglior creazione olfattiva maschile</span>: <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Parfum</span></b> (Antoine Maisondieu, Daniela Andrier)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Miglior profumo femminile made in Italy: S<b>alvatore Ferragamo <span style="color: #38761d;">Signorina in fiore</span></b> (Emilie Coppermann)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Miglior profumo maschile made in Italy</span>: <b>Trussardi <span style="color: #38761d;">Riflesso</span></b> (Veronique Nyberg)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Miglior packaging femminile: <b>Hermès <span style="color: #38761d;">Twilly</span></b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Miglior packaging maschile</span>: <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Y pour homme</span></b> by <b>Yves Saint Laurent</b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Miglior profumo esclusivo da un grande marchio: <b>Armani Privé <span style="color: #38761d;">Iris Céladon</span></b> (Marie Salamagne)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Miglior profumo artistico: <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Tuberose in Blue</span></b> by <b>Altaia – Eau d’Italie</b></span></li>
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<u><span style="font-family: inherit;">Giuria VIP</span></u></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Miglior comunicazione femminile: <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Gabrielle</span> Chanel</b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Miglior comunicazione maschile: <b>Acqua di Parma <span style="color: #38761d;">Colonia Pura</span></b></span></li>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-36528549138151758772018-05-23T00:48:00.001+02:002018-05-23T00:55:34.990+02:00Accademia del Profumo Awards 2018<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaRFcSqZPKOhVz1vum_1qH9Zc7HiI_FD_PWDUys-X5EYtQEE23PJyUrVk8hJdziQI0n4fWgxOQkZu23wmJs7yG4vSxQChdqgituGe9sKDaxTK701zyNp0R4Y019xMN4RrINShIv1vEs60B/s1600/Invito.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="482" data-original-width="575" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaRFcSqZPKOhVz1vum_1qH9Zc7HiI_FD_PWDUys-X5EYtQEE23PJyUrVk8hJdziQI0n4fWgxOQkZu23wmJs7yG4vSxQChdqgituGe9sKDaxTK701zyNp0R4Y019xMN4RrINShIv1vEs60B/s320/Invito.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I am pleased to share here this report also published a few days ago on <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/accademia-del-profumo-awards-2018-ceremony-a-brief-interview-with-alberto-morillas/">Çafleurebon</a>.<br />
For the second year in a row, I’ve had the honor of being invited to attend the prestigious <a href="http://www.accademiadelprofumo.it/">Accademia del Profumo</a> <b>Awards</b> which was held <b>May 15, 2018</b> (think of it as the Italian equivalent of the Fragrance Foundation Awards). To highlight perfumery as art, creativity and craftsmanship, each time the organization takes care in choosing the location for the ceremony, and this time the Accademia del Profumo Awards 2018 gala was held at the monumental temple of the cutting-edge contemporary art: the <a href="http://www.hangarbicocca.org/en/">Pirelli Hangar Bicocca</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEukS-crzuAslFFnTym7e2hAuNGpXiWhEAoThvzDIz140jEnSa5rzLnx6M5UpN2nBre6j_fzsUW_-JHkgnpxq41G-YEzyjdx8bE2Kdg4XOthBA7s_oJL1J02ZTgY97QwX6pZGEaAke0XuK/s1600/10+Giorgia+Surina.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="714" data-original-width="720" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEukS-crzuAslFFnTym7e2hAuNGpXiWhEAoThvzDIz140jEnSa5rzLnx6M5UpN2nBre6j_fzsUW_-JHkgnpxq41G-YEzyjdx8bE2Kdg4XOthBA7s_oJL1J02ZTgY97QwX6pZGEaAke0XuK/s320/10+Giorgia+Surina.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Giorgia Surina via Accademia del Profumo<span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">©</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Set in a post industrial site risen from the ‘20s to the ‘60s to test high-power great machines, with its 9500 square meters and 30 meters height this ex-hangar is now the cathedral that’s become famous for hosting <b>Anselm Kiefer</b>’s permanent installation <b>The seven heavenly palaces</b>.</span></div>
Just think how amazing is to having dinner with the stars of perfumery in front of such huge work. Moreover this event is important to reconnect with all the Italian and international Fragrance market players (brands, distribution and writers) and to score guests from arts, culture and show business. Since the best masculine and feminine perfumes of the year are chosen by consumers (about 162.000 votes were collected salespoints in 2018) this is also useful to keep track of the trends and tastes in the Italian mass market.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlym_C2JFfLRvFCbFBpS1TjKm3O6fTIjToDlWUZKtBxt0QzeXSNHhMPw0m_GMuqu2gJsfB2fksxreCB0kCqttTHb8xUSI5Wcas9fCfe1MLG1EIxigrIN3NWrDWTHWMdK0jFM3xh2DSC2kN/s1600/08+Bertinelli_Bevilacqua.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="889" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlym_C2JFfLRvFCbFBpS1TjKm3O6fTIjToDlWUZKtBxt0QzeXSNHhMPw0m_GMuqu2gJsfB2fksxreCB0kCqttTHb8xUSI5Wcas9fCfe1MLG1EIxigrIN3NWrDWTHWMdK0jFM3xh2DSC2kN/s320/08+Bertinelli_Bevilacqua.PNG" width="259" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luciano Bertinelli e Giulia Bevilacqua<br />
via Accademia del Profumo©<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike></td></tr>
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The Accademia del Profumo Awards 2018 Gala was attended by Accademia del Profumo president <b>Luciano Bertinelli</b> (who’s also Salvatore Ferragamo Parfums CEO) together with actress <b>Giorgia Surina</b> who was dressed in a refined light pink tulle dress. While pointing out the strong commitment Accademia del Profumo takes in spreading perfume culture, he also introduced next year’s challenge.<br />
Rising from the collaborationwith <b>Cosmetica Italia </b>(the Italian Cosmetics Companies association) and <b>Cosmoprof</b> (the Italian Cosmetics main show), the exhibition “<i>Leonardo Genius and Beauty</i>” will celebrate the love for beauty and wellness that marked the work of the Tuscan genius and his time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJSg0aVWv_A5Ij4UbVSSLp7CXZ0cjr-oBZk7QfzSOtQaIKQREgNk5uPZZ-hDkqzNMFVvxJoGg3YSN_vFkWvRcuOnb45jFisV4rUQF-k8z68pJ-xTyxhQY0GPaxFBvPPg0vXCqGhodpbsv/s1600/17+Perfumers+Parade.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJSg0aVWv_A5Ij4UbVSSLp7CXZ0cjr-oBZk7QfzSOtQaIKQREgNk5uPZZ-hDkqzNMFVvxJoGg3YSN_vFkWvRcuOnb45jFisV4rUQF-k8z68pJ-xTyxhQY0GPaxFBvPPg0vXCqGhodpbsv/s400/17+Perfumers+Parade.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alberto Morillas, Aurelien Guichard, Sophie Labbé, Cecile Matton, Antoine Maisondieu, Veronique Nyberg, Luca Maffei, Antoine Lie (left to right)</td></tr>
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Fun moments at the Accademia del Profumo Awards 2018 began with the award for the best packaging handed to the winner by the irreverent Apulian painter <b>Paolo Troilo</b>. The technical jury which assigns most of the prizes, awarded b<b>est masculine and feminine packaging</b> respectively Y<b>ves Saint Laurent <span style="color: #38761d;">Y for men</span></b> and <b>Hermès <span style="color: #38761d;">Twilly</span></b>. <b>Best masculine perfume</b> award went to the leathery <b>Daniela Andrier</b> and <b>Antoine Maisondieu</b>’s <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Parfum</span></b> while the feminine counterpart was given to <b>Alberto Morillas</b> heady floral <b>Gucci <span style="color: #38761d;">Bloom</span></b>. Special acknowledgement was given to all the perfumers attending (among them Antoine Lie, Veronique Nyberg, Luca Maffei, Aurelien Guichard and Cécile Matton). <br />
<b>Firmenich</b> Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas was the brightest star shining at the Accademia del Profumo Awards 2018 Gala and I felt so honored I could talk to him and also ask about the creation of Gucci Bloom.<br />
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“<i>I always start from scratch when composing a perfume, there’s no ready-made thinking. In this case while I tried to enter the world of Alessandro Michele, I was going to India for the harvest of jasmine sambac. While smelling the blossoms, I realized closed flowers smelled very different from the ones in full bloom. So I decided to change the process and asked for two separated extractions which I mixed for this very feminine sillage</i>” replied Morillas.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkUQUm4qbCW9hNMaMFK7aTqShBGU3WPPOEdC2WfiM7x9Dxx6ZZ8b7vwL4ca3HWji8Y48sQm7TFMVYIlU2gOlERPnnkTaYvkOmZ9ksgtdYBytg6J9Rc6-o6A3sgA_w2Q_8qGjKk-jJJ3Sew/s1600/14+Me_Morillas.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1280" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkUQUm4qbCW9hNMaMFK7aTqShBGU3WPPOEdC2WfiM7x9Dxx6ZZ8b7vwL4ca3HWji8Y48sQm7TFMVYIlU2gOlERPnnkTaYvkOmZ9ksgtdYBytg6J9Rc6-o6A3sgA_w2Q_8qGjKk-jJJ3Sew/s320/14+Me_Morillas.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">con Alberto Morillas</td></tr>
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You can tell the floral trend is now in full bloom also in the mass market as a special award was given to <b>Olivier Polge</b> (who unfortunately couldn’t attend) for <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Gabrielle</span> Chanel</b> that’s been the best-selling perfume during the first six months from its launch in 2017. A special VIP Jury composed among the others by painter Paolo Troilo, actress <b>Giulia Bevilacqua</b> and the designer <b>Francesca Versace</b> (Santo Versace’s daughter) awarded Chanel Gabrielle for the <b>best advertising campaign</b> featuring actress <b>Kristen Stewart</b>. <b>Best exclusive perfume by a big brand</b> went to the spiced muskiness of <b>Armani Privé <span style="color: #38761d;">Iris Céladon</span></b> while <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Tuberose in Blue</span></b> by <b>Altaia</b> gained the prize for the <b>best niche perfume</b>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dall'invito all'addobbo floreale della cena, il rosso segna il Premio 2018</td></tr>
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<b>Accademia del Profumo Awards 2018 WINNERS</b><br />
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<u>Consumer’s choice</u><br />
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<ul>
<li>Best feminine perfume of the year: <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Narciso Rodriguez For Her Fleur Musc</span></b> (Sonia Constant)</li>
<li>Best masculine perfume of the year: <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Dior Homme Sport</span></b> (François Demachy)</li>
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<u>Technical Jury</u><br />
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<ul>
<li>Best feminine perfume: <b>Gucci <span style="color: #38761d;">Bloom</span></b> (Alberto Morillas)</li>
<li>Best masculine perfume: <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Parfum</span></b> (Antoine Maisondieu, Daniela Andrier)</li>
<li>Best feminine perfume made in Italy: S<b>alvatore Ferragamo <span style="color: #38761d;">Signorina in fiore</span></b> (Emilie Coppermann)</li>
<li>Best masculine perfume made in Italy: <b>Trussardi <span style="color: #38761d;">Riflesso</span></b> (Veronique Nyberg)</li>
<li>Best feminine packaging: <b>Hermès <span style="color: #38761d;">Twilly</span></b></li>
<li>Best masculine packaging: <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Y pour homme</span></b> by <b>Yves Saint Laurent</b></li>
<li>Best Exclusive perfume by a big brand: <b>Armani Privé <span style="color: #38761d;">Iris Céladon</span></b> (Marie Salamagne)</li>
<li>Best Niche perfume: <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Tuberose in Blue</span></b> by <b>Altaia – Eau d’Italie</b></li>
</ul>
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<u>VIP Jury</u><br />
<u></u><br />
<ul>
<li>Best feminine Advertising Campaign: <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Gabrielle</span> Chanel</b></li>
<li>Best masculine Advertising Campaign: <b>Acqua di Parma <span style="color: #38761d;">Colonia Pura</span></b></li>
</ul>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-413822642995168452018-04-15T01:47:00.001+02:002018-04-16T18:10:08.507+02:00Esxence 2018: Scent Diary #1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2bxpgwy2dUOdYT0egEG8xKv8hGxEbIftYeqQsp647c3EJ9aS333SO4c6E7NohXdqgMwhYMva2ow9p1SNvJaYEsmUR9PIjId8eeGksgZg0crUYLjCfRg66rU2Ln3CXxQG5xeyt5FhMPPyn/s1600/Ten+Logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2bxpgwy2dUOdYT0egEG8xKv8hGxEbIftYeqQsp647c3EJ9aS333SO4c6E7NohXdqgMwhYMva2ow9p1SNvJaYEsmUR9PIjId8eeGksgZg0crUYLjCfRg66rU2Ln3CXxQG5xeyt5FhMPPyn/s320/Ten+Logo.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<b>Esxence 2018</b> ha svelato diverse novità interessanti, ma per rompere il ghiaccio voglio raccontarvi i momenti divertenti e le tendenze emerse a cui seguiranno nei prossimi post maggiori dettagli fragranti.<br />
“<i>La decima edizione è stata una celebrazione della comunità che durante gli anni Esxence ha saputo riunire</i>” ha detto la ragazzaccia della profumeria <b>Sarah Colton</b> introducendo la tavola rotonda <b>Ten Years of Esxence – Assessing the Dividends & Planning the Future</b>. E cosa meglio di un Gala ufficiale di Esxence riesce a radunare ì più profumati cattivi ragazzi e ragazze per divertisti alla grande?
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3PzsBI-JghcGvXRAgq55QPTsT_-jKiOELaFj2CKxad5d4Jf98grlZaXkJKNHUOMoeqD2GG9ruOyYGpZntoSZgdzbCDAC_wlbg2D7JcBTR-p10Fn0hiLZTCLqnAgSIT8N-FkgnorVqpN3q/s1600/Party+Me+Alex+Lee.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3PzsBI-JghcGvXRAgq55QPTsT_-jKiOELaFj2CKxad5d4Jf98grlZaXkJKNHUOMoeqD2GG9ruOyYGpZntoSZgdzbCDAC_wlbg2D7JcBTR-p10Fn0hiLZTCLqnAgSIT8N-FkgnorVqpN3q/s320/Party+Me+Alex+Lee.JPG" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smelfie con Alex Lee</td></tr>
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Il <b>Cocktail Prolongé & DJ Set</b> quest'anno si è tenuto al <b>Circolo Filologico</b>, una stupenda costruzione art nouveau nel cuore di Milano e il dress code era “<i>a touch of gold</i>”, un tocco d'oro che per molti versi riflette i trend in ascesa tra le fragranze, ma ve ne parlerò in dettaglio poi.
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Ad aggiungere pepe al cocktail di apertura Silvio Levi ha invitato un'outsider della profumeria, <b>Hilde Soliani</b> che è tanto conosciuta per le sue composizioni golose quanto per il suo temperamento istrionico che l'ha vista in incursioni teatrali. Anche sul buffet è arrivato il fragrantissimo tocco d'oro dello zafferano quando hanno servito il risotto alla milanese (il mio oro gastronomico preferito!). Poi la musica ha iniziato a pompare e le luci ad abbassarsi e tutti sono scesi in pista. Via alle danze!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gli agrumi di Perris Montecarlo</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">In perfetto accordo con “un tocco d'oro”, come non nominare l'oro di Calabria, il bergamotto di Reggio che introduce la prima tendenza uscita da Esxence 2018: <b style="margin: 0px;">Zest is Best</b>, agrumato è meglio. L'esempio più brillante di questo trend è la <b style="margin: 0px;">White Collection</b> proposta da <b style="margin: 0px;">Perris Montecarlo</b>. <b style="margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #38761d; margin: 0px;">Mandarino di Sicilia</span></b> e <b style="margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #38761d; margin: 0px;">Cedro di Diamante</span></b> sono fragranze gioiose, ma la vera gemma è <b style="margin: 0px;"><span style="color: #38761d; margin: 0px;">Bergamotto di Calabria</span></b> dove <b style="margin: 0px;">Gian Luca Perris</b> e <b style="margin: 0px;">Luca Maffei</b> si avvalgono di rare specialità tradizionali e innovazione come l'unico bergamotto spugnato della prestigiosa produzione <b style="margin: 0px;">Capua 1880</b> alleato alla freschezza fruttata del pepe di Timur himalayano, novità di <b style="margin: 0px;">Mane</b> vista lo scorso autunno a <b style="margin: 0px;">Pitti Fragranze</b>. </span></div>
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<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL6HUggC-X8pJI4xPieyVyTC9UKI4hRrw9Eey8xDjLvxuM7ZssJEeGOvHpCH6yNx_w7qcRzuzkTydazygAZSazs1ycDcaSYy7leVMihVrn6X91yrXDLU788a2QYznEfG9EgGm-z9zAwrf5/s1600/AA+Limoni+Sicilia.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL6HUggC-X8pJI4xPieyVyTC9UKI4hRrw9Eey8xDjLvxuM7ZssJEeGOvHpCH6yNx_w7qcRzuzkTydazygAZSazs1ycDcaSYy7leVMihVrn6X91yrXDLU788a2QYznEfG9EgGm-z9zAwrf5/s320/AA+Limoni+Sicilia.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">I limoni di Sicilia di Antonio Aleesandria</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Come confermano alcune anteprime che ho potuto sentire come il dissetante <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Fara</span></b> di <b>Antonio Alessandria</b> in arrivo nell'autunno, questa tendenza sarà decisamente duratura. Potete giurarci visto che anche un marchio <span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">che si è imposto per i suoi oud insolenti <span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">come </span><b style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">The House of Oud</b><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"> </span>si scosta nella sua nuova linea </span><b>THOO</b>, un trio leggiadro di eaux la cui stella è <b><span style="color: #38761d;">The Time</span></b><span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">, </span>bella composizione di the blu e camomilla firmata da <strong>Cristian Calabrò</strong>. Infatti dopo oltre dieci anni di oro arabo a volontà in cui l'oud (vero e finto) è si è infiltrato dagli attar più costosi via via fino al più dozzinale gel doccia da supermercato, la gente ora ha voglia di fragranze più luminose lasciando così il legno più ambito del Medioriente finalmente riposare come uno dei tanti ingredienti della tavolozza del profumiere. </span></div>
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<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAPcdUjBxft3FLtpJ8LXHRPUPI9kxTC3nW2LFXawtZ-tDkinE8OpGm9Frg5GYnHl478cTZ2g_yRLrAu12jr5RmccgV1x_QFlgdSIdicbETZYBYTp7qunUtcRH4d_0m3JlsAzz_nWsPvsPf/s1600/IMG_0751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="990" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAPcdUjBxft3FLtpJ8LXHRPUPI9kxTC3nW2LFXawtZ-tDkinE8OpGm9Frg5GYnHl478cTZ2g_yRLrAu12jr5RmccgV1x_QFlgdSIdicbETZYBYTp7qunUtcRH4d_0m3JlsAzz_nWsPvsPf/s400/IMG_0751.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Circolo filologico milanese (via repubblica.it)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Oltre che dall'oud, c'è un abbandono degli orientali monolitici in favore di un altro trend in ascesa: <b>Timeless Elegance</b>. Il meglio dello show di questa raffinatezza multisfaccettata è l' extrait de parfum <b><span style="color: #38761d;">L’Iris de Fath</span></b>, il restauro mozzafiato della chimera fragrante nota come <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Iris Gris</span></b> di cui vi parlerò in dettaglio più avanti. <b>Neela Vermeire Creations</b> ha sempre fatto della raffinatezza francese un caposaldo e lo riconferma nel nuovo frizzantissimo iris cuoiato <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Niral</span></b>. Questo classicismo ora si diffonde anche dall'abbraccio carnale infuso di salvia di <b>Aedes de Venustas <span style="color: #38761d;">Musc Encensé</span></b> la cui scia muschiara sembra il complemento perfetto al soffitto di vetro del Circolo Filologico. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">L'eleganza senza tempo incontra i fiori luminosi in <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Cornaline</span></b>, l'ultimo peccaminoso lancio di <b>Anatole Lebreton</b> che coglie il color carota pastoso della pietra immersa in un ylang ylang assolato. Esplorando una colonna portante dell'eleganza maschile, il profumiere <b>Fanny Bal</b> riversa in <b>Masque Milano</b> (omaggio a) <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Hemingway</span></b> tutto lo charme degli anni '50 grazie alla trasparenza minerale e nocciolata del vetiver coeur, una speciale estrazione di <b>Laboratoire Monique Rémy</b>. Anche un Mastro Intagliatore di legni stridenti come <b>Arturetto Landi</b> spunta la sua ascia sotto la direzione artistica di <b>Silvio Levi</b> nel verde cuoiato avant-garde di <b>Calé <span style="color: #38761d;">Sottosopra</span></b>. </span><br />
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<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIeAyvKlAqBBcREO4lEwFYXOTBEjx7LKpOxOQdIQPdQ-H9a77wkfrBqHPv6XMDVC01YsC3-Etmsh2wlEFLRer276RP60V_tGHYYd6xZDEcPPEzQBX0GQrkz-q6N7FODjCs4GS9KRp3Pqo9/s1600/Tonatto+EDI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIeAyvKlAqBBcREO4lEwFYXOTBEjx7LKpOxOQdIQPdQ-H9a77wkfrBqHPv6XMDVC01YsC3-Etmsh2wlEFLRer276RP60V_tGHYYd6xZDEcPPEzQBX0GQrkz-q6N7FODjCs4GS9KRp3Pqo9/s320/Tonatto+EDI.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="256" /></span></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">La tendenza floreale continua a crescere ora incentivata anche da questa voglia di leggerezza. Una squisita incarnazione della novella <i>jeune fille en fleur</i> è il nuovo <b>Eau d’Italie <span style="color: #38761d;">Fior Fiore</span></b> creato dal Maestro Profumiere <b>Olivier Cresp</b>. La direttrice creativa <b>Marina Sersale</b> trae ispirazione dai pergolati di gelsomino dell'esclusivo champagne bar dell'Hotel Le Sirenuse per dipingere un appuntamento galante <span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">nella luminosa primavera di </span>Positano. Un'altra scoperta su questo filone emergente è la violetta eterea di <b><span style="color: #38761d;">EDI Essenza Design Italiano</span></b> creata da <b style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Tonatto</b><span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"> come profumo </span>site-specific per la <b>Triennale Museo del Design </b>di Milan e contenuta nelle arcate leggere del flacone disegnato da <b>Astrid Luglio</b>. Il Flower Power impera e perfino un marchio ispirato dai tessuti come <b>Uèrmì</b> lancia il suo primo profumo esplicitamente floreale <b><span style="color: #38761d;">OR±DAMASK</span></b>, una rosa soffice del Maestro Profumiere <b>Maurice Roucel</b>.</span><br />
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<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Lo stand DI SER</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Assieme a questi trend, mentre il grande sillage mediorientale svanisce, il concetto di Territorio prende piede. Prima di tutto l'Australia che negli scorsi anni ha meritato la scena internazionale con marchi come <b>Naomi Goodsir</b> (che ha appena vinto in Francia un FIFI Award 2018 per <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Nuit de Bakelite</span></b>), <b>Grandiflora</b> e <b>Map of the Heart</b>. <b>Fort & Manle</b> e <b>GoldField & Banks</b> sono marchi più recenti che continuano a delineare l'<i>Aussie style</i>. Marchi giapponesi come <b>Miya Shinma</b> e <b>DI SER</b> con i loro unici, preziosi <span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">profumi </span>fatti di contrasti senza compromessi stanno definendo un <i>J-style</i> lontano dai cliché occidentali sul Sol Levante. </span></div>
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<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Homoelegans</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Basandosi di solito sull'odore di cupcake, macaron e popcorn, i gourmand sono diventati un classico in profumeria. Ora finalmente, la ricerca di sentori meno scontati segna un'ondata di nuovi gourmand. Si può notare sorseggiando il latte infuso di curcuma di <b>Gabriella Chieffo <span style="color: #38761d;">Lattedoro</span></b> (ispirato a resilienza e serenità, altri recenti temi ricorrendi) o i dolcetti persiani nan-e badami in <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Tendre Nuit</span></b> di <b>Isabey</b><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">.</span><b> </b>La prelibatezza più raffinata servita ad Esxence però è l'ultimo <b>Homoelegans <span style="color: #38761d;">Ivre de vie</span></b> dove Maurizio Cerizza tratteggia <i>La Môme</i> a Paris fracassando un mazzo di rose rosse su delle baguette appena sfornate e calici di Bordeaux. </span></div>
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<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">la valigia profumata di Wild Society</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Una menzione speciale va a profumi & valigie. Dato che ho visto diversi stand dov'erano abbinati, sospetto che in futuro vedremo più proposte per viaggiatori fragranti. Vale la pena di segnalare l'ultimo progetto di <b>Luc Gabriel</b><span style="background-color: transparent; display: inline; float: none; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"> il proprietario di</span> <b>The Different Company</b> che presenta <b>Wild Society </b>– Le parfum en liberté offrendo soluzioni di viaggio abbordabili agli amanti di profumi. Creato dal profumiere <b>Emilie Coppermann</b>, <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Nubes</span></b> è un mix rinfrescante di terra e note frizzanti che fa venire decisamente voglia di nuovi viaggi ed avventure.</span></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-3704052568195182592018-04-15T01:27:00.001+02:002018-04-16T18:09:44.700+02:00Esxence 2018: Scent Diary #1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2bxpgwy2dUOdYT0egEG8xKv8hGxEbIftYeqQsp647c3EJ9aS333SO4c6E7NohXdqgMwhYMva2ow9p1SNvJaYEsmUR9PIjId8eeGksgZg0crUYLjCfRg66rU2Ln3CXxQG5xeyt5FhMPPyn/s1600/Ten+Logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2bxpgwy2dUOdYT0egEG8xKv8hGxEbIftYeqQsp647c3EJ9aS333SO4c6E7NohXdqgMwhYMva2ow9p1SNvJaYEsmUR9PIjId8eeGksgZg0crUYLjCfRg66rU2Ln3CXxQG5xeyt5FhMPPyn/s320/Ten+Logo.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I scouted quite a few other intriguing new perfumes from <b>Esxence 2018</b> as I also posted on <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/new-perfumes-from-esxence-2018-eau-ditalie-fior-fiore-homoelegans-ivre-de-vie-cale-sottosopra-antonio-alessandria-fara-wide-society-nube-or-damask-and-tonatto-edi-a-touch-of-gold-draw/">ÇaFleureBon</a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; margin: 0px;"></span>. Here it is my report about fun and trends to be followed soon by more insights.<br />
“<i>The tenth edition has been a celebration of the community that through the years Esxence has been able to gather</i>” said the bad girl of perfumery <b>Sarah Colton</b> introducing the panel <b>Ten Years of Esxence – Assessing the Dividends & Planning the Future</b>. And what best gathers the perfume bad girls and boys for some real fun more than an Esxence official Gala? <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fun with perfumer Alex Lee</td></tr>
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This year’s <b>Cocktail Prolongé & DJ Set</b> was held at <b>Circolo Filologico</b>, an amazing art nouveau building at the very heart of Milan and the dress code was “<i>a touch of gold</i>”, many inspirations that in a way reflect the upcoming trends in fragrances, but I will talk about it later. <br />
To spice up the opening cocktail Silvio Levi invited <b>Hilde Soliani</b> who is famous for her lip-smacking concoctions as much as for her dramatic temperament that led her into theatrical incursions. Also the buffet had a touch of gold as the saffron laden; fragrant Milanese risotto (my favorite edible gold indeed!) was served. While the music started pumping and lights dimmed everybody rocked the dance floor. Let the fun start! <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Perris Montecarlo booth</td></tr>
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Perfectly matching with “a touch of gold”, let me name the Calabrian gold, Bergamot from Reggio to introduce the first trend emerging from Esxence 2018: <b>Zest is Best</b>. The brightest example of this trend is the <b>White Collection</b> introduced by <b>Perris Montecarlo</b>. <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Mandarino di Sicilia</span></b> and <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Cedro di Diamante</span></b> are simply joyful but the real gem is <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Bergamotto di Calabria</span></b> where <b>Gian Luca Perris</b> and <b>Luca Maffei</b> exploit rare traditional and high-tech specialties like the unique bergamot oil sponged the old way from top notch producer <b>Capua 1880</b> allied to the fruity freshness of Himalayan Timur pepper <b>Mane</b> introduced last fall at <b>Pitti Fragranze</b>. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL6HUggC-X8pJI4xPieyVyTC9UKI4hRrw9Eey8xDjLvxuM7ZssJEeGOvHpCH6yNx_w7qcRzuzkTydazygAZSazs1ycDcaSYy7leVMihVrn6X91yrXDLU788a2QYznEfG9EgGm-z9zAwrf5/s1600/AA+Limoni+Sicilia.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL6HUggC-X8pJI4xPieyVyTC9UKI4hRrw9Eey8xDjLvxuM7ZssJEeGOvHpCH6yNx_w7qcRzuzkTydazygAZSazs1ycDcaSYy7leVMihVrn6X91yrXDLU788a2QYznEfG9EgGm-z9zAwrf5/s320/AA+Limoni+Sicilia.JPG" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Antonio Aleesandria's Sicilian lemons</td></tr>
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I enjoyed a few sneak sniffs and loved the thirst-quenching <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Fara</span></b> by <b>Antonio Alessandria</b> debuting next fall, this trend is definitely going to stay for longtime. You can swear it’s true when even a full frontal oud based brand like <b>The House of Oud</b> takes a depart in its new line <b>THOO</b>, an uplifting trio of eaux which star is a beautiful blue tea and chamomile themed concoction <b><span style="color: #38761d;">The Time</span></b> signed by perfumer <b>Cristian Calabrò</b>. In fact after more than ten years of Arabian gold galore where (real and fake) oud has leaked from the most expensive attars down to the cheapest drugstore shower gel, people now long for more luminous fragrances letting the Middle Eastern most coveted wood finally rest as just one of the ingredients in the perfumer’s palette. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAPcdUjBxft3FLtpJ8LXHRPUPI9kxTC3nW2LFXawtZ-tDkinE8OpGm9Frg5GYnHl478cTZ2g_yRLrAu12jr5RmccgV1x_QFlgdSIdicbETZYBYTp7qunUtcRH4d_0m3JlsAzz_nWsPvsPf/s1600/IMG_0751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="990" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAPcdUjBxft3FLtpJ8LXHRPUPI9kxTC3nW2LFXawtZ-tDkinE8OpGm9Frg5GYnHl478cTZ2g_yRLrAu12jr5RmccgV1x_QFlgdSIdicbETZYBYTp7qunUtcRH4d_0m3JlsAzz_nWsPvsPf/s400/IMG_0751.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Circolo filologico milanese (via repubblica.it)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'Iris de Fath</td></tr>
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Along with oud, there’s a departure from monolithic Orientals in favor of another rising trend: <b>Timeless Elegance</b>. Best in show of this multifaceted refinement is the extrait de parfum <b><span style="color: #38761d;">L’Iris de Fath</span></b>, the stunning restoration of the fragrant chimera known as <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Iris Gris</span></b> which I will review later. <b>Neela Vermeire Creations</b> has always made a statement of French refinement and this is again true of the new bubbling leathery iris in <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Niral</span></b>. This classicism now radiates also from the sage laden carnal snuggle of <b>Aedes de Venustas <span style="color: #38761d;">Musc Encensé</span></b> which muskiness perfectly complements the stained glass ceiling of Circolo Filologico. <br />
Timeless elegance meets glowing florals in <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Cornaline</span></b>, the latest tempting introduction by <b>Anatole Lebreton</b> which captures the carrot orange mellowness of the stone dipped in a sundrenched ylang ylang harmony. Exploring a pillar of masculine elegance, perfumer <b>Fanny Bal</b> pours in <b>Masque Milano</b> (homage to) <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Hemingway</span></b> all the charme of the 1950s thanks to the crystal-clear mineral nuttiness of a special <b>Laboratoire Monique Rémy</b> vetiver heart extraction. Even a Master Chopper of scratchy woods like <b>Arturetto Landi</b> smoothed his axe under the artistic direction of <b>Silvio Levi</b> in the avant-garde leathery green <b>Calé <span style="color: #38761d;">Sottosopra</span></b>. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIeAyvKlAqBBcREO4lEwFYXOTBEjx7LKpOxOQdIQPdQ-H9a77wkfrBqHPv6XMDVC01YsC3-Etmsh2wlEFLRer276RP60V_tGHYYd6xZDEcPPEzQBX0GQrkz-q6N7FODjCs4GS9KRp3Pqo9/s1600/Tonatto+EDI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIeAyvKlAqBBcREO4lEwFYXOTBEjx7LKpOxOQdIQPdQ-H9a77wkfrBqHPv6XMDVC01YsC3-Etmsh2wlEFLRer276RP60V_tGHYYd6xZDEcPPEzQBX0GQrkz-q6N7FODjCs4GS9KRp3Pqo9/s320/Tonatto+EDI.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">EDI - Essenza Design Italiano</td></tr>
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The floral trend continues to grow now also boosted by this desire for lightness. An exquisite embodiment of the updated <i>jeune fille en fleur</i> is the new <b>Eau d’Italie <span style="color: #38761d;">Fior Fiore</span></b> created by Master Perfumer <b>Olivier Cresp</b>. Creative Director <b>Marina Sersale</b> took inspiration from the jasmine trellis decorating the exclusive Hotel Le Sirenuse champagne bar to portray a luminous spring romantic date in Positano. Another discovery in this emerging trend is the ethereal violet in <b>Tonatto</b>’s <b><span style="color: #38761d;">EDI Essenza Design Italiano</span></b> was created as a site specifi perfume for <b>Triennale Design Museum</b> in Milan and is housed in a light arcades flacon by Designer <b>Astrid Luglio</b>. You know Flower Power prevails when a fabric inspired brand <b>Uèrmì</b> launched its first outspokenly floral, <b><span style="color: #38761d;">OR±DAMASK</span></b>, a soft rose by Master Perfumer <b>Maurice Roucel</b>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgySGDkDUgD-XsILB7Lj5L_8Z-BbgIOGUoqqGaVyZIecLnff6a-dKIMaKeVJu8v0SvHjyDXrdsQozfU3D8MRY3aQ6st2VxDcpM3_zU97MsjhwyNQ9D92UTEThfQ2CtKePCiIRT8jZkVo-Rs/s1600/DI+SER.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgySGDkDUgD-XsILB7Lj5L_8Z-BbgIOGUoqqGaVyZIecLnff6a-dKIMaKeVJu8v0SvHjyDXrdsQozfU3D8MRY3aQ6st2VxDcpM3_zU97MsjhwyNQ9D92UTEThfQ2CtKePCiIRT8jZkVo-Rs/s320/DI+SER.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DI SER booth</td></tr>
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Together with these trends, as the “Middle Eastern big sillage” fades out the concept of Terroir taked the stage. First, Australia which in the last years gained an international audience with brands like <b>Naomi Goodsir</b> (who just won a French FIFI 2018 for <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Nuit de Bakelite</span></b>), <b>Grandiflora</b> and <b>Map of the Heart</b>. <b>Fort & Manle</b> and <b>GoldField & Banks</b> are newer brands that continue to define “<i>Aussie style</i>”. Japanese brands like <b>Miya Shinma</b> and <b>DI SER</b> with their unique and precious perfumes based on uncompromising contrasts are also defining a “<i>J-style</i>” far from the western fragrant cliché of the Rising Sun. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeUMBqGWjKI00JmZo9LM0gLebEiUZsZGdN99c3KPs8BgtGK245mluzDm3KWBCGkidvYsgcTciigX_ijarKOoqVdYVm-r7byX0fGAApK25t38nTjI7SkNqQSgnQwzehNWAs11hSzS4cZ9El/s1600/Homoelegans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1242" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeUMBqGWjKI00JmZo9LM0gLebEiUZsZGdN99c3KPs8BgtGK245mluzDm3KWBCGkidvYsgcTciigX_ijarKOoqVdYVm-r7byX0fGAApK25t38nTjI7SkNqQSgnQwzehNWAs11hSzS4cZ9El/s320/Homoelegans.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Homoelegans booth</td></tr>
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Usually relying on cupcakes, macarons and popcorn smells, gourmands have become a staple in perfumery. Now finally, the quest for less obvious perfumes marks a neo-gourmand wave. You can feel it sipping the turmeric infused milk of <b>Gabriella Chieffo <span style="color: #38761d;">Lattedoro</span></b> (inspired by resilience and serenity, other ongoing themes) or the Persian nan-e badami cookies in <b>Isabey <span style="color: #38761d;">Tendre Nuit</span></b>. The most refined delicatessen served at Esxence though is the latest <b>Homoelegans <span style="color: #38761d;">Ivre de vie</span></b> where Maurizio Cerizza depicts <i>La Môme</i> in Paris smashing a bunch of red roses on freshly baked baguettes and a glass of Bordeaux. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizjXsvq8-YXUmDYmhH4Qh8QUZVZzJQ6L4r56x_VN-8_7ACof5TFuOG13NgklES8Xb5vnZ14dsDXDOrffcE_hSAGpqqrSQ_N6feGsrUB7trDuzIiJgbbmAY9LUZfleWwEcXp2nTFPrNr_YW/s1600/Wild+Society+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizjXsvq8-YXUmDYmhH4Qh8QUZVZzJQ6L4r56x_VN-8_7ACof5TFuOG13NgklES8Xb5vnZ14dsDXDOrffcE_hSAGpqqrSQ_N6feGsrUB7trDuzIiJgbbmAY9LUZfleWwEcXp2nTFPrNr_YW/s320/Wild+Society+02.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wild Society fragrant suitcase</td></tr>
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Special mention goes to perfumes & suitcases. Since I saw more than one booth featuring both, I suspect we’ll see in the future more about fragrant travelers. Worth mentioning is <b>The Different Company</b> owner <b>Luc Gabriel</b>’s latest project called <b>Wild Society </b>– Le parfum en liberté which offers affordable travel solutions for perfume lovers. Created by perfumer <b>Emilie Coppermann</b>, <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Nubes</span></b> is a refreshing mix of earth and sparking notes that definitely makes your nose craving for more journeys and adventures.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-74626957931333499662018-03-09T00:56:00.003+01:002018-03-09T17:17:58.432+01:00Esxence 10 - Un'edizione tutta d'oro<div class="separator" style="background-color: transparent; clear: both; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
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Esxence-The Scent of Excellence la fiera annuale dedicata alla profumeria artistica che si terrà a <b>Milano dal 5 all'8 aprile 2018</b> festeggerà dieci anni e questo segna anche il sesto anno che La Gardenia nell'Occhiello ne è un media partner ufficiale. Lo scorso mese ho partecipato alla conferenza stampa di presentazione che si è tenuta al <b>Park Hyatt Hotel</b>, l'incantevole hotel di lusso a cinque stelle giusto a lato delle belle volte art nouveau della Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, ed eccomi pronto a svelarvi tutte<b></b> le novità di questa edizione tutta d'oro.<br />
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<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">La Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II</td></tr>
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<b>Maurizio Cavezzali</b>, Presidente di Equipe International e co-fondatore di Esxence ha aperto la discussione. “<i>Abbiamo creato il culto della profumeria artistica. Ora il mondo ci osserva per capire le tendenze e capire quali sono i principali attori del settore. Questo implica un lavoro meticoloso di grande ricerca per un evento indipendente che è stato capace di affermarsi con l'altissima qualità delle sue proposte. Ogni anni l'85% dei marchi più importanti passano da qui. Inoltre Esxence rappresenta il trampolino di lancio per marchi emergenti che aspirano al successo</i>“. <br />
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Nel 2016, il mercato italiano della profumeria di nicchia con un fatturato da 200 milioni di euro contava il 2% dell'intera industria cosmetica: la profumeria di nicchia è cresciuta del 60% rispetto al 2015. Il dato è stato svelato durante la conferenza per mettere in evidenza il grande interesse attorno alla profumeria di nicchia. Ad Esxence parteciperanno oltre 200 marchi esclusivi, dalla sezione dei marchi consolidati (40%) alla sezione Spotlight per i newcomer (60%). Gli espositori esteri saranno il 70%, principalmente europei, ma anche dagli Stati Uniti e dal Medioriente. <br />
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<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Maurizio Cavezzali, Silvio Levi, Valentina Cagnola, Daniela Romagnoli</td></tr>
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“<i>Esxence è riuscita a indirizzare la profumeria artistica internazionale diventando il punto d'incontro più importante e un incubatore di opportunità. E' una realtà che ora coinvolge centinaia di operatori e migliaia di consumatori appassionati. Questa è stata una crescita percentuale a doppia cifra per i fatturati del settore in dieci anni in cui Esxence è stata ispiratrice e guida, anche difendendola negli ultimi anni mantenendo standard sempre elevati. Grazie a questo sforzo, la qualità di questa profumeria è cresciuta sempre più, assieme alla consapevolezza del cliente per la sua innovazione e per il contenuto estetico che ci autorizza a parlare di una vera arte. Nei secoli il profumo è passato dall'essere un peccaminoso elemento di perdizione, espressione demoniaca all'essere un modo di esprimere noi stessi ed il nostro stile. Gli altri ci riconoscono non solo da come appariamo e da ciò che diciamo, ma anche per il nostro profumo</i>”, ha aggiunto <b>Silvio Levi</b>. <br />
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<b>Valentina Cagnola</b> di Equipe International, l'ufficio stampa ufficiale, ha svelato il calendario degli eventi di Esxence-The Scent of Excellence 2018, che annovera discussioni e conferenze: l'autorevole esperto di profumi <b>Michael Edwards</b> e M.me <b>Patricia de Nicolaï</b>, maestro profumiere e presidentessa dell'<b>Osmothèque</b> che ci offrirà un excursus attraverso i cento anni della famiglia chypre condotto da <strong>Bruno Hervé</strong>. Ci sarà anche un workshop sui gourmand con <b>Mouillettes & Co.</b> Inoltre, saranno ufficialmente presentati due libri, il primo sulla storia olfattiva di Venezia ed il secondo sui segreti dell'oud.<br />
Ospite speciale sarà <b>Pierre Dinand</b>, che ritorna a tre anni di distanza dall'ultimo focus sul packaging che quest'anno sarà messo in luce attraverso speciali collaborazioni. La vocazione di Esxence alla cultura è fortemente riconfermata anche grazie all'accesso libero a qualsiasi conferenza. Durante l'evento saranno svelati anche i finalisti degli <b>Art and Olfaction Awards </b>2018 e <b>Sarah Colton</b> e <b>Karen Marin</b> terranno una tavola rotonda sui "Dieci anni di Esxence" e sul futuro della profumeria di nicchia. Potete trovare il calendario completo degli eventi <a href="http://esxence.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/19.02-Events-calendar.pdf">qui</a>.<br />
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<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Il party del 2017 presso lo Spazio Gessi</td></tr>
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<b>Daniela Romagnoli</b>, che ha seguito la comunicazione di Esxence fin dall'inizio, è stata nominata Art Director dell'evento. In conferenza ha evidenziato quanto fosse importante sottolineare il traguardo del decennale, al punto da diventare esso stesso il tema di quest'anno. Una collaborazione con gli studenti dell'Accademia di Brera ha fatto notare come il logo di Esxence sia sovrapponibile alla mappa di Milano, che ribadisce anche l'importanza della manifestazione per la città. Il blu, colore istituzionale di Esxence e l'oro sono stati scelti per simboleggiare il legame dell'evento col lusso e l'eccellenza. Il nuovo skyline di Milano è stato aggiunto a ribadire il legame con The Mall, la sede dove Esxence ha trovato la sua dimensione perfetta. Cavezzali e Levi hanno anche rimarcato l'importanza di mantenere il numero degli espositori all'attuale, in modo che si privilegi comunque sempre l'eccellenza oggi e domani. <br />
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Per il quarto anno consecutivo, sarà presente lo spazio dedicato ad <b>Esxkin – The Excellence of Beauty</b>, area dedicata allo skincare di lusso dove i marchi internazionali più esclusivi presenteranno le ultime innovazioni nel campo dei trattamenti di bellezza. Ci vediamo fra un mese a Milano per Esxence-The Scent of Excellence 2018!<br />
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Potete trovare la lista completa degli espositori di Esxence-The Scent of Excellence 2018 <a href="http://esxence.com/brand-list-2/">qui</a>. <br />
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-85147382430066069182018-03-09T00:56:00.002+01:002018-03-09T17:17:06.692+01:00Esxence 10 - the golden edition<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Esxence-The Scent of Excellence</b> the annual exhibition devoted to artistic perfumery held in <b>Milan, Italy on 5-8 April 2018</b> will celebrate ten years and this will also mark La Gardenia nell'Occhiello's 6th year as an official media partner. Last month I attended the Esxence-The Scent of Excellence 2018 press conference, which was held at the <b>Park Hyatt Hotel</b>, the glamourous Luxury 5 star hotels right on the side of the beautiful art nouveau arcades of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, so I'm going to tell you more about what are the news for this year's golden edition.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan</td></tr>
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<b>Maurizio Cavezzali</b>, Equipe International President and Esxence co-founder opened the discussion. “<i>We created the cult for artistic perfumery. Now the world looks to us to understand trends and recognize the major players of the sector. This involves a meticulous work of great research for an independent event that has been able to affirm itself with the top quality level of its proposals. Every year the 85% of the most relevant brands pass by here. Moreover Esxence represents the springboard for emerging brands aiming to be successful</i>“. <br />
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In 2016, the Italian niche fragrance market with 200 million Euros revenues counted as 2% of the whole cosmetics industry: niche perfumery has grown by 60% compared to 2015. The data has been revealed during the conference to point out the great interest the niche industry is gathering. Esxence will feature more than 200 exclusive brands, from the consolidated Main Brand section (40% of the whole) to the Spotlight section for the newcomers (60%). Exhibitors from overseas will be the 70%, mainly from Europe, but also from the United States and Middle East. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maurizio Cavezzali, Silvio Levi, Valentina Cagnola, Daniela Romagnoli</td></tr>
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“<em>Esxence has been able to shape international artistic perfumery becoming the most important meeting point and incubator for opportunities. It’s a reality that now involves hundreds of operators and thousands of passionate consumers. This has seen a two digits growth percentage for the sector’s revenues in ten years where Esxence has been inspiring and leading it, even defending it in the last years trying to keep standards high. Thanks to this effort, the quality of this perfumery has been more and more renowned, together with the customer awareness of its innovation and aesthetic content that allows us to talk about a true art. During the centuries perfume has passed from being a sinful perdition element, a devil’s expression to being not only accepted but becoming a way of expressing themselves and our own style. Others recognize us not only from our talk and look, but also by our fragrance</em>”, added <b>Silvio Levi</b>. <br />
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<b>Valentina Cagnola</b> from Equipe International, the press office, spoke about the calendar of events for Esxence-The Scent of Excellence 2018, featuring discussions and conferences with: Perfume Expert and authority Michael Edwards and M.me <b>Patricia de Nicolaï</b>, master perfumer and president of the <b>Osmothèque</b> who will bring a conference about 100 years of the chypre family conducted by <strong>Bruno Hervé</strong>. There will be also a workshop on gourmands with <b>Mouillettes & Co.</b> In addition, two new books will be officially presented, the first about perfume history in Venice and the latter about the secrets of oud. <br />
A special guest is <b>Pierre Dinand</b>, who returns after three years focus on flacons and packaging which also will be highlighted by special collaboration. The calling of Esxence for culture is strongly reconfirmed also because all the conferences will be free and accessible to everybody. The 2018 finalists of the <b>Art and Olfaction Awards</b> will be announced at the event and a panel discussing "Ten Years of Esxence" will be moderated by <b>Sarah Colton</b> and <b>Karen Marin</b> on the future of niche perfumery. You can find the complete Events calendar <a href="http://esxence.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/19.02-Events-calendar.pdf">here</a>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last year's party at Spazio Gessi</td></tr>
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<b>Daniela Romagnoli</b>, who has been responsible for the communication of Esxence since its inception, has been appointed Art Director of the event. She pointed out how important was to remark the 10 years milestone, so this became the main theme itself. A collaboration with art students from Brera highlighted the Esxence logo that is connected to the map of Milan, and the importance of Esxence to the city. Blue, Esxence institutional color, and gold have been used to symbolize the connection of the event with excellence and luxury. The new skyline of Milan has been added to confirm the connection with The Mall, the location where Esxence has found its perfect dimension. Cavezzali and Levi also highlighted the importance of keeping constant the exhibitors number this way, always aiming for excellence now and in the future. <br />
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For the fourth consecutive year there is a spotlight on <b>Esxkin – The Excellence of Beauty</b>, the area dedicated to luxury skincare where the most exclusive international brands will introduce the latest innovations in beauty.
See you in Milano for Esxence-The Scent of Excellence 2018.
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Please finde the complete listing of Esxence-The Scent of Excellence 2018 Exhibitors <a href="http://esxence.com/brand-list-2-2/?lang=en">here</a>.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-36454322640529028302017-11-21T17:10:00.000+01:002017-11-21T17:19:56.981+01:00Kingdom edp di Alexander McQueen (J. Cavalier, 2003)<span lang=""><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La pubblicità di Kingdom</td></tr>
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Nel dicembre 2000, il gruppo Gucci acquisì il 51% del marchio <strong>Alexander McQueen</strong> e stanziò un piano per l'apertura di negozi monomarca a Londra, Milano e New York e la costituzione di Alexander McQueen Parfums. Essendo un grande fan di questo genio rivoluzionario, ricordo che salutai l'apertura della sua boutique milanese come una boccata d'aria fresca fra gli strascichi asfittici del minimalismo anni '90.<br />Non più tardi di dicembre 2003 sentii <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Kingdom</span></strong> per la prima volta e me lo ricordo ancora bene perchè era completamente diverso dal resto dell'offerta massificata. Era il momento in cui la maggior parte dei profumi <em>permanentati</em> anni '80 erano stati sbiancati da una decade saponosa di galaxolide. Non c'è da meravigliarsi quindi che risultasse strano o talvolta disturbante. Diversamente dal più conservativo nuovo McQueen, un vistoro floreale in flacone nero con collare di piume dorate, Kingdom era davvero la perfetta traduzione delle creazioni polarizzanti che l'<em>enfant terrible</em> della moda britannica faceva sfilare in passerella. Eccovi allora il tributo a questa fragranza che ho scritto per <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/cafleurebon-modern-masterpieces-alexander-mcqueen-kingdom-jacques-cavalier-belletrud-2003-pierce-my-heart-again-draw/">ÇaFleureBon</a>.</span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcIwvoq14dmUw9KIi6IlJbXIPUVr9muVURvEhaO_tjvJnV3RcCWuQ7NYICXmxL9cTa5xgCohdQp_vNhaiZt44EbCckUFeIIgqYnEnwep74lWi_n2mrzMDhGdIrcKUpiIYF7JfIHYtGg6AC/s1600/The_Dance_of_the_Twisted_Bull_McQ_SS2002_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="727" data-original-width="501" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcIwvoq14dmUw9KIi6IlJbXIPUVr9muVURvEhaO_tjvJnV3RcCWuQ7NYICXmxL9cTa5xgCohdQp_vNhaiZt44EbCckUFeIIgqYnEnwep74lWi_n2mrzMDhGdIrcKUpiIYF7JfIHYtGg6AC/s320/The_Dance_of_the_Twisted_Bull_McQ_SS2002_01.jpg" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McQueen PE 2002<br />
"<em>The dance of the twisted bull</em>"</td></tr>
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Durante la collaborazione con il maestro profumiere <strong>Jacques Cavalier-Belletrud</strong> (che all'epoca lavorava per Firmenich), Alexander McQueen era nel mezzo di un periodo glorioso ricco di collaborazioni artistiche e premi, mentre usciva la strepitosa collezione "<em>The dance of the twisted bull</em>" (la danza del toro perverso) tutta tinta in argento, rosso, bianco e nero. Metteteci in mezzo a questo team creativo un giovane <a href="http://lagardenianellocchiello.blogspot.it/2011/03/un-caffe-in-roma-con-kilian-hennessy.html">Kilian Hennessy</a> appena arrivato da Gucci e giurerete che nulla di meno che pericoloso poteva uscire da questa liaison.<br />L'amicizia profonda e la collaborazione artistica fra la musicista <strong>Bjork</strong> e Alexander McQueen era uno degli ingredient chiave del loro influenzarsi reciprocamente fin dall'uscita dell'album <strong>Homogenic</strong> curato dal giovane McQueen stesso. Entrambi erano interessati dalla relazione fra tecnologia, natura e quel senso di decadenza che vivono gli inglesi dai tempi in cui l'Impero Vittoriano si è sgretolato. Nel 1997, Bjork disse in una intervista al Chicago Sun Times "<em>Ho spiegato a Lee che la persona che ha scritto queste canzoni è qualcuno che si trova in una situazione impossibile, così impossibile da dover diventare un guerriero, ma un guerriero che ha dovuto combattere con l'amore, non con le armi</em>". <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv4f81XEecZKuP1sgnft6V1DoileCMnswX7IUP34ZZXgixCC73jqdUrwZCRNjfr0YEevdgcS4JouBl1L1HZ8XLINtOYZ-OIYEIOQ7_sabem0c4FmUfKYiM6TqH6judxEEL9F4O5_0pTylz/s1600/Bjork_Who_is_it_McQueen_2004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="371" data-original-width="497" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv4f81XEecZKuP1sgnft6V1DoileCMnswX7IUP34ZZXgixCC73jqdUrwZCRNjfr0YEevdgcS4JouBl1L1HZ8XLINtOYZ-OIYEIOQ7_sabem0c4FmUfKYiM6TqH6judxEEL9F4O5_0pTylz/s1600/Bjork_Who_is_it_McQueen_2004.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="">Bjork indossa il famoso vestito a campana di Alexander Mc Queen nel video di "<em>Who is it</em>" dall'album Medulla del 2004</span></td></tr>
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<span lang=""><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgDua088Knb52LRgy4hGc6WDMAGpPcm9C8oG4WhMDfZ78t-1NvKdkakWUKzpuW2Q0t-OTlAWVPjtMw1-J6-UeBoZip9gVO9uPi4SdgE4f9JHO00H4d583sZfg2AyJ0RVYlDPpZdp7EZx1z/s1600/Kingdom-McQueen-perfume-300x300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgDua088Knb52LRgy4hGc6WDMAGpPcm9C8oG4WhMDfZ78t-1NvKdkakWUKzpuW2Q0t-OTlAWVPjtMw1-J6-UeBoZip9gVO9uPi4SdgE4f9JHO00H4d583sZfg2AyJ0RVYlDPpZdp7EZx1z/s1600/Kingdom-McQueen-perfume-300x300.jpg" /></a></span></div>
<span lang="">Non posso fare a meno di provare questa tensione fra amore, resilienza e rovina già nell'aprire la scatola di carta ruvida di Kingdom, leggendo la frase sulla rima interna "<em>Pierce my heart again</em>" (trafiggimi ancora il cuore). Il flacone stesso sembra una specie di armatura da cuore high-tech in acciaio segata per esporre il muscolo rosso e pulsante, e di conseguenza il suo liquido fragrante.<br /> Appena spruzzato su pelle, le note di testa sono fresche di agrumi ma insolite con un verde amarognolo e astringente fra angelica e pompelmo. Nel caso questa overture androgina non fosse abbastanza polarizzante, il calore del bouquet floreale di gelsomino e soprattutto rosa che a qualcuno ricorda <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Dune</span></strong> di <strong>Christian Dior</strong> (Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Dominique Ropion e Nejla Bsiri-Barbir) qui è sostenuto da un'ondata di cumino e dal tocco arso del chiodo di garofano. <br />
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<span lang=""><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHnjPoRRn5jQB4Ko9Rg_86N6cm7WPmRbNL-dHxZOJdt0GaAenVNLLNih53Sq6j8nzpfQi3RTVz3nSCx_YeXkzketev0Z9CkDrSvewS1caBdEl04TsGJf1YRTK_u0Tb0qtiQitNh0S44IO1/s1600/CaFleureBon-Kingdom-by-McQueen-bottle-300x300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHnjPoRRn5jQB4Ko9Rg_86N6cm7WPmRbNL-dHxZOJdt0GaAenVNLLNih53Sq6j8nzpfQi3RTVz3nSCx_YeXkzketev0Z9CkDrSvewS1caBdEl04TsGJf1YRTK_u0Tb0qtiQitNh0S44IO1/s1600/CaFleureBon-Kingdom-by-McQueen-bottle-300x300.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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Questa decadenza evocativa di una danza col toro perverso, di mazzolini vittoriani trapuntati di neroli e grovigli di corpi accaldati diventa protagonista sulla mia pelle inserendosi in quella tendenza per le rose speziate e sapide inaugurata appena prima da <a href="http://lagardenianellocchiello.blogspot.it/2017/09/rose-poivree-di-different-company-j-c.html">Rose Poivrée</a> di <strong>Jean-Claude Ellena</strong>. Il meglio deve ancora arrivare però, perchè il fondo si amplifica attorno alla cremosità romantica del sandalo: meno polveroso di fava tonka rispetto allo stile guerlainesco, qui la natura vince sulla technologia, il sangue e la pelle sull'acciaio. Lasciandosi alle spalle l'era chiururgica del calone, Kingdom ha cambiato le regole ricollegandosi alla famiglia dei legnosi orientali femminili lungo la scia di <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Samsara</span></strong> di <strong>Jean-Paul Guerlain </strong>regalando a questo meraviglioso fallimento, questa "<em>situazione impossibile</em>" una seconda opportunità. Il gusto medio del tempo e i mega direttori ai piani alti l'hanno destinato all'insuccesso non comprendendo la sua bellezza selvaggia. Trafiggimi ancora il cuore, perchè dove c'è gusto non c'è danno. <br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir3kayEq8t7frIzHTBiaWEjoCecIBEUFu4LOKrPdUP6Tx5rCtQG3L6EzRLxSx1JHZGzQlm9N0gwHH_WzlgQu21kMNBlGH7mCuBdpofROp05yhStqmW30jwT-9h2i_jtNpjdfv-fY8Nn-zF/s1600/DarkAngel_TimWalker_VogueUK_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="504" data-original-width="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir3kayEq8t7frIzHTBiaWEjoCecIBEUFu4LOKrPdUP6Tx5rCtQG3L6EzRLxSx1JHZGzQlm9N0gwHH_WzlgQu21kMNBlGH7mCuBdpofROp05yhStqmW30jwT-9h2i_jtNpjdfv-fY8Nn-zF/s1600/DarkAngel_TimWalker_VogueUK_04.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="">Dark Angel, Tim Walker per Vogue UK di marzo 2015. Abito della collezione McQueen PE 2002 © </span></td></tr>
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Nota: Kingdom venne inizialmente lanciato in eau de parfum e venduto nelle boutique Alexander McQueen e in pochi punti selezionati. Sono state lanciate diverse edizioni limitate della fragranza negli anni seguenti e perfino un Kingdom parfum. La McQueen Parfums venne poi acquisita da P&G che ripropose la fragranza in una versione eau de toilette. Più leggera e meno complessa, continuava comunque a distinguersi per la sua famigerata nota di cumino che la rendeva tutt'altro che piaciona.<br /><br /> Le note includono: bergamotto di Calabria, mandarino di Sicilia, arancio, neroli tunisino, rosa, gelsomino indiano, cumino, zenzero, vaniglia francese e mirra indonesiana</span><br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-58345857743344430672017-11-21T17:04:00.001+01:002017-11-21T17:10:14.473+01:00Alexander McQueen Kingdom edp (J. Cavalier, 2003)<span lang=""><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigaXI0SiEUZoS7lGPtB5Wi489Xm0EsPrLq3lfPNk3pz5BibLrqufJYV-a7L3MIIYrbYPPCflDNAuT_rh9RMHc_5cIOFPeOvCHs3n-e-9x4pZoppZe6DCME8O44rKIS0GIPkBWj9Tkur_NV/s1600/alexander-mc-queen-kingdom-ad_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="833" data-original-width="635" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigaXI0SiEUZoS7lGPtB5Wi489Xm0EsPrLq3lfPNk3pz5BibLrqufJYV-a7L3MIIYrbYPPCflDNAuT_rh9RMHc_5cIOFPeOvCHs3n-e-9x4pZoppZe6DCME8O44rKIS0GIPkBWj9Tkur_NV/s320/alexander-mc-queen-kingdom-ad_01.jpg" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kingdom Advertising</td></tr>
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In December 2000, the Gucci Group bought the 51% of the <strong>Alexander McQueen</strong> brand and this came with a plan for opening stores in London, Milan and New York and the establishment of the Alexander McQueen Parfums. Being a huge fan of this disruptive genius, I remember I welcomed the opening of his store downtown in Milan as a breath of fresh air in the aftermath of 1990s jaded minimalism. <br />
It was not long after this I smelled <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Kingdom</span></strong> for the first time back in December 2003 and I still remember it as it was totally different from most of the mainstream offerings. It was the time when most of the permed and-mullet ‘80s scents had been toned down by a decade of galaxolide soapiness. So it’s no wonder it smelled odd and sometimes disturbing. Unlike the more conservative new McQueen gaudy floral housed in the black’n gold feathered bottle, Kingdom was indeed the perfect match to the polarizing creations the <em>enfant terrible</em> of Brit fashion was releasing on his catwalks. So let me share here too this review I wrote for the <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/cafleurebon-modern-masterpieces-alexander-mcqueen-kingdom-jacques-cavalier-belletrud-2003-pierce-my-heart-again-draw/">ÇaFleureBon Modern Masterpieces Serie</a>.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">McQueen SS 2002<br />
"<em>The dance of the twisted bull</em>"</td></tr>
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While closely collaborating with master perfumer <strong>Jacques Cavalier-Belletrud</strong> (who was working for Firmenich at the time), Alexander McQueen was in the midst of a glorious period full of artistic collaborations, accolades and releasing the amazing collection "<em>The dance of the twisted bull</em>" all tinged in silver grey, red, black and white. Put in the midst of this creative team a young <a href="http://lagardenianellocchiello.blogspot.it/2011/03/coffee-in-rome-with-kilian-hennessy.html">Kilian Hennessy</a> who just joined the Gucci group back then and you’ll swear nothing less than dangerous could come out of this liaison.<br />
The sincere friendship and artistic collaboration between musical artist <strong>Bjork</strong> and Alexander McQueen was a key ingredient of their mutual influence since the album <strong>Homogenic</strong> styled by a young McQueen himself was released. They both were interested in the relationship between technology, nature and the decay the British fel since the Victorian Empire crumbled. Back in 1997, Bjork told the Chicago Sun Times "<em>I explained to Lee that the person who wrote these songs is someone in an impossible situation, so impossible that she had to become a warrior, but a warrior who had to fight with love, not weapons</em>".
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv4f81XEecZKuP1sgnft6V1DoileCMnswX7IUP34ZZXgixCC73jqdUrwZCRNjfr0YEevdgcS4JouBl1L1HZ8XLINtOYZ-OIYEIOQ7_sabem0c4FmUfKYiM6TqH6judxEEL9F4O5_0pTylz/s1600/Bjork_Who_is_it_McQueen_2004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="371" data-original-width="497" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv4f81XEecZKuP1sgnft6V1DoileCMnswX7IUP34ZZXgixCC73jqdUrwZCRNjfr0YEevdgcS4JouBl1L1HZ8XLINtOYZ-OIYEIOQ7_sabem0c4FmUfKYiM6TqH6judxEEL9F4O5_0pTylz/s400/Bjork_Who_is_it_McQueen_2004.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="">Bjork wearing the famous Alexander Mc Queen bell dress for the video of "<em>Who is it</em>" from the 2004 album Medulla</span></td></tr>
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I can’t help but feeling this struggle between love, resilience and decay upom opening the rough white paper box of Kingdom, reading the headline inside "<em>Pierce my heart again</em>". The bottle itself looks like a high-tech steel heart armor sliced to expose the red throbbing muscle, and thus the fragrant liquid itself.<br />
As you spray it on skin, the topnotes are fresh with citrus and an unusual, slightly astringent angelica-grapefruit bitter greenness. Just in case this androgynous overture isn’t polarizing enough, the warmth of a floral bouquet of jasmine and above all rose that to some is redolent of <strong>Christian Dior</strong>’s <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Dune</span></strong> (Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Dominique Ropion and Nejla Bsiri-Barbir) here is empowered by a load of cumin and burnt hints of clove. <br />
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<span lang=""><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHnjPoRRn5jQB4Ko9Rg_86N6cm7WPmRbNL-dHxZOJdt0GaAenVNLLNih53Sq6j8nzpfQi3RTVz3nSCx_YeXkzketev0Z9CkDrSvewS1caBdEl04TsGJf1YRTK_u0Tb0qtiQitNh0S44IO1/s1600/CaFleureBon-Kingdom-by-McQueen-bottle-300x300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHnjPoRRn5jQB4Ko9Rg_86N6cm7WPmRbNL-dHxZOJdt0GaAenVNLLNih53Sq6j8nzpfQi3RTVz3nSCx_YeXkzketev0Z9CkDrSvewS1caBdEl04TsGJf1YRTK_u0Tb0qtiQitNh0S44IO1/s1600/CaFleureBon-Kingdom-by-McQueen-bottle-300x300.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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This decay redolent of a dance with the twisted bull, of neroli-sprinkled Victorian posies and heated body groves takes the center stage on my skin joining the savory, spiced rose trend launched a while before by <strong>Jean-Claude Ellena</strong>’s <a href="http://lagardenianellocchiello.blogspot.it/2017/09/the-different-company-rose-poivree-j-c.html">Rose Poivrée</a>. The best is yet to come though as the basenote grows more and more around sandalwood creaminess and romance: less powdery and tonka-laden in guerlainesque style, it’s nature winning over technology, blood and skin over steel. Leaving behind the surgical calone era, Kingdom was a gamechanger reconnecting the woody-oriental feminines family to the trail of <strong>Jean-Paul Guerlain</strong>’s <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Samsara</span></strong> and giving this marvelous failure, this "<em>impossible situation</em>" a second chance. The mainstream tastes of the time and the suits in big offices doomed it to fail not understanding its such savage beauty. Pierce my heart again, for where there’s taste there’s no damage. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir3kayEq8t7frIzHTBiaWEjoCecIBEUFu4LOKrPdUP6Tx5rCtQG3L6EzRLxSx1JHZGzQlm9N0gwHH_WzlgQu21kMNBlGH7mCuBdpofROp05yhStqmW30jwT-9h2i_jtNpjdfv-fY8Nn-zF/s1600/DarkAngel_TimWalker_VogueUK_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="504" data-original-width="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir3kayEq8t7frIzHTBiaWEjoCecIBEUFu4LOKrPdUP6Tx5rCtQG3L6EzRLxSx1JHZGzQlm9N0gwHH_WzlgQu21kMNBlGH7mCuBdpofROp05yhStqmW30jwT-9h2i_jtNpjdfv-fY8Nn-zF/s1600/DarkAngel_TimWalker_VogueUK_04.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="">Dark Angel, by Tim Walker for Vogue UK, March 2015 featuring a dress from the Mc Queen SS 2002 © </span></td></tr>
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Note: Kingdom was first released as an edp and sold in Alexander McQueen stores and few selected retailers. Various limited edition of the scent came in the next years and also a Kingdom parfum was released. The McQueen Parfums was later acquired by P&G that reproposed the perfume in a smoother edt version. This smelled brighter, less complex and yet its infamous cumin note set it still far from being a crowd pleaser. <br />
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Notes include: Calabrian Bergamot, Sicilian Mandarin, Orange , Tunisian Neroli, Rose, Indian Jasmine, Cumin, Ginger, French Vanilla, and Indonesian Myrrh<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-16514671064826855272017-10-24T14:48:00.002+02:002017-10-24T14:48:41.882+02:00Fragranze 15: Scent Diary #03<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0bnH9Iu3EZrtWgWJMDWIBiU1TrDa7vTRSjJKUmlBdtY73T5I6Vo5opOxYRoSS3guIYMPLP5aU5_x0y2gE5id8HO1WG7oxhMhmg6RMktYzTtf6k9tJIiwT2qwxsE7bnNmT5MP_gAgTlpoG/s1600/FullSizeRender_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0bnH9Iu3EZrtWgWJMDWIBiU1TrDa7vTRSjJKUmlBdtY73T5I6Vo5opOxYRoSS3guIYMPLP5aU5_x0y2gE5id8HO1WG7oxhMhmg6RMktYzTtf6k9tJIiwT2qwxsE7bnNmT5MP_gAgTlpoG/s200/FullSizeRender_1.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<strong>Technique Indiscrète</strong><br />
Il ritorno alla ribalta del garofano in questi ultimi anni ha sicuramente alimentato la tendenza attuale per i floreali speziati. Technique Indiscrète finalmente è di nuovo a Firenze dopo tre anni di assenza con l'adorabile <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Fleur de Papier</span></strong>. Il profumiere di Anversa <strong>Libertin</strong> <strong>Louison </strong>immagina l'odore di una stampa floreale su un gigantesco cartellone pubblicitario, un'enorme, surreale garofano che porta con se un po' l'odore di colla e carta bagnata che lo rendono patinato ed eccentrico. <br />
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<strong>La Parfumerie Moderne</strong><br />
Un altro superclassico rimasterizzato dal profumiere <strong>Marc Antoine Corticchiato</strong> è il nuovo <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Belles Rives</span></strong> de La Parfumerie Moderne. Mentre tutti gridano, il silenzio è il lusso supremo sembra sussurrare questo iris legnoso che prende ispirazione dall'hotel più lussuoso e tranquillo sulle rive del lago di Ginevra. L'iris fiorentino è ritratto qui con pennellate appena floreali di gelsomino ed osmanthus su un solido letto di legni ambrati su cui prevale l'ascetico cedro del Texas. <strong><br /></strong><br />
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<strong>Peccato Originale</strong><br />
Una menzione particolare va alla direttrice creative di Peccato Originale <strong>Silvia Monti</strong> per la più bizzarra e sorprendente storyline della fiera. Dimenticate i viaggi verso mete esotiche, vecchi libri di formule e tradizioni o storie d'amore perchè <span style="color: #38761d;"><strong>Gas Antisociale</strong></span> (con tanto di mouillettes a forma di maschera antigas) con il suo bouquet di rose legnoso e speziato vuole essere un antidoto contro i nascisisti maligni affetti da comportamenti antisociali e paranoia che tendono a vivere una propria realtà autocelebrativa.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBll2TgXXneeKw5hlpEsbK4F0SSy8vdl4QYBf7qbp3No3ZPiyKKrcJzuC7Booacl415yAKUeP10DUuhQ6PZV2nUbZRoOaA4Wio4Yk_5S1VlCVs9TfgGRyc0xYCNl_OlODcP2rW6ACz4f0T/s1600/IMG_6790.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="498" data-original-width="640" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBll2TgXXneeKw5hlpEsbK4F0SSy8vdl4QYBf7qbp3No3ZPiyKKrcJzuC7Booacl415yAKUeP10DUuhQ6PZV2nUbZRoOaA4Wio4Yk_5S1VlCVs9TfgGRyc0xYCNl_OlODcP2rW6ACz4f0T/s400/IMG_6790.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sarah McCartney gioca con me a Guerre Stellari: naturale vs. sintetico</td></tr>
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<strong>Our Modern Lives</strong><br />
Un altra menzione va al profumiere di <strong>4160Tuesdays</strong> <strong>Sarah McCartney</strong> per Our Modern Lives, la nuova linea che comprende sette profumi 100% naturali (alcune miscele le ha sperimentate durante la pratica ventennale dello yoga) più due 100% sintetici. Il concept mostra in modo brillante che le Guerre Stellari in profumeria non hanno nessun lato oscuro. Sovrapponendo le creazioni di Sarah, la gente può comprendere la bellezza di natura e sintesi facendo così pace nella galassia profumata. La mia combinazione preferita ad esempio è <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Acquamarine Waves</span></strong> (un agrumato marino naturale) + <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Beta </span></strong>(ambra sintetica).<br />
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<strong>Parco 1923 Nazionale d’Abruzzo</strong><br />
Attenzione anche a Parco 1923, una fragranza completa di linea da bagno profumata da <strong>Luca Maffei</strong> per suggerire la freschezza della foresta nel Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo. Per rendere ancora più forte la connessione con il territorio, parte dei ricavati delle vendite sono devoluti per la salvaguardia delle specie autoctone.<br />
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-69296565054558186342017-10-24T14:47:00.001+02:002017-10-24T14:47:49.771+02:00Fragranze 15: Scent Diary #03<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0bnH9Iu3EZrtWgWJMDWIBiU1TrDa7vTRSjJKUmlBdtY73T5I6Vo5opOxYRoSS3guIYMPLP5aU5_x0y2gE5id8HO1WG7oxhMhmg6RMktYzTtf6k9tJIiwT2qwxsE7bnNmT5MP_gAgTlpoG/s1600/FullSizeRender_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0bnH9Iu3EZrtWgWJMDWIBiU1TrDa7vTRSjJKUmlBdtY73T5I6Vo5opOxYRoSS3guIYMPLP5aU5_x0y2gE5id8HO1WG7oxhMhmg6RMktYzTtf6k9tJIiwT2qwxsE7bnNmT5MP_gAgTlpoG/s200/FullSizeRender_1.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<strong>Technique Indiscrète</strong><br />
The revamping of carnation over the last few years has surely fostered the current spicy floral trend. Technique Indiscrète was finally back to Florence after three years absence with the lovely <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Fleur de Papier</span></strong>. Antwerp based perfumer <strong>Libertin </strong><strong>Louison </strong>imagines the smell of a flower print on a giant advertising, a surrealist huge carnation carrying a bit of the wet paper and glue smell that makes it slick and funky.
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<strong>La Parfumerie Moderne</strong><br />
Another superclassic remastered by perfumer <strong>Marc Antoine Corticchiato</strong> is the new La Parfumerie Moderne <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Belles Rives</span></strong>. When everybody’s shouting, silence is the ultimate luxury seems to whisper this woody iris taking inspiration from the most luxurious and quite hotel in the Geneva lake. Florentine iris here is depicted with slight floral strokes of jasmin and osmanthus over a solid bed of ambery woods ruled by the aloofness of Texan cedarwood.
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<strong>Peccato Originale</strong><br />
A honorable mention goes to Peccato Originale creative director <strong>Silvia Monti</strong> for the most oddly amazing storyline of the show. Forget about travels to exotic places, old books of formulas and heritage or love stories as <span style="color: #38761d;"><strong>Gas Antisociale</strong></span> (antisocial gas, complete with mask blotters) with its woody-spicy rose aims to be an antidote to keep away malefic narcissists affected by antisocial behavior and paranoia who tend to always celebrate themselves.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sarah McCartney and me playing Star Wars battle: natural vs. synthetic</td></tr>
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<strong>Our Modern Lives</strong><br />
Another mention goes to <strong>4160Tuesdays</strong> perfumer <strong>Sarah McCartney</strong> for Our Modern Lives, the new line featuring seven 100% natural perfumes (some of the blends she used them practicing yoga for more than 20 years) plus two 100% synthetic ones. The concept is a brilliant way to show the Star Wars in perfumery has no dark side. Layering Sarah’s creations, people can understand the beauty in both making peace in the perfume galaxy. My favorite combination for example is <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Acquamarine Waves</span></strong> (natural citrus marine) + <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Beta </span></strong>(synthetic amber).<br />
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<strong>Parco 1923 Nazionale d’Abruzzo</strong><br />
I want to call out Parco 1923, an eco-friendly perfume and bath line scented by <strong>Luca Maffei</strong> suggests the freshness of the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo (think of the Italian Yosemite Park) forest. To strengthen even more the connection with the territory, part of the income from the sales is devolved to save the native species.<br />
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-65783041283211420712017-09-29T17:35:00.001+02:002017-09-29T17:35:27.014+02:00Fragranze 15: Scent Diary #02<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<strong>Antonio Alessandria Parfums</strong><br />
La seconda parte di questo Scent Diary da Pitti Fragranze parte dall'Italia che continua ad essere terra di talenti brillanti. Prendendo ispirazione dal romanzo di <strong>Tomasi di Lampedusa </strong><strong>Il gattopardo </strong>portato al grande schermo da <strong>Luchino Visconti</strong>, l'ultima creazione del profumiere Antonio Alessandria <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Gattopardo</span></strong> ritrae l'animo nobile della Sicilia in chiaroscuro con una luminosa ondata di geranio, fico e whiskey contrapposti all'opulenza di un patchouli vellutato intessuto dall'oro di cera d'api, iris, cacao ed una scia golosa di pasta di mandorle. Spruzzate, chiudete gli occhi e giurerete anche voi di essere stati ospiti dell'imperioso Don Fabrizio, Principe di Salina.<br />
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<strong>Maison Gabriello Chieffo</strong><br />
Non più maschio, non ancora femmina. <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Quasicielo</span></strong>, è la fragranza della trasformazione, di quel momento tempestoso eppure incredibilmente beato in cui un'anima intraprende il suo cammino sacrosanto verso l'armonia. Questa è la stimolante ispirazione scelta da Gabriella Chieffo per la prima creazione composta interamente da lei per riflettere il cammino sofferto di un ragazzo come equilibrio fra una vibrante dissonanza verde-resinosa e la serenità acidula del fingerlime su un'ambra calda e golosa.<br />
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<strong>Olivier Durbano</strong><br />
Concepito nel cuore della Perfume Valley, cioè Grasse, il poeta delle pietre e dei profumi Olivier Durbano lancia la sua tredicesima creazione. Olivier mi ha spiegato che il numero 13 è ricco di significati per lui e rappresenta una forte connessione spirituale che ascende al cielo, proprio come l'incenso che è un po' la sua firma. Tipicamente Durbano, <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Labradorite</span></strong> 13 è un camaleonte di opposti senza compromessi: blu come la freschezza salina che sospinge le pagliuzze dorate dell'ambra, il verde aromatico contro l'oscurità delle note animali, tutto avvolto in spire di fumigazioni rituali che donano profondità e tenuta.<br />
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<strong>Molinard</strong> <br />
Parlando di Grasse, sono due le cose che vengono subito in mente: fragrantissimi campi di rose a perdita d'occhio e Molinard. <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Rosa Turkia</span></strong>, l'ultimo nato della Maison si distingue nella linea <em>Les Éléments Prestige</em> per la ricchezza di note verdi, di frutta, miele e cascate di petali color cremisi. Un profumo come ogni amante delle rose desidera, sontuoso come i grandi classici.<br />
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<strong>Eris Parfums</strong><br />
Creatività e bellezza disinvolta sono caratteristiche del gusto francese, ecco perché la collega blogger e autrice di <strong>Scent & Subversion</strong> <strong>Barbara Hermann</strong> ha voluto collaborare col il genio della profumeria <strong>Antoine Lie</strong> per <strong>ERIS Parfum</strong>. Se le prime creazioni pongono l'accento su fiori languidi come lo squisito aldeidato <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Belle de jour</span></strong>, l'ultimo nato dal nome <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Mx.</span></strong> (si riferisce al titolo neutro in aggiunta a Mr. e Mrs., Ms, etc). rende omaggio alla fluidità di genere con una composizione golosamente speriata di sandalo e cacao dagli accenti cuoiati.<br />
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Uno fra gli eventi culturali di spicco promossi da Fragranze come sempre è <strong>RAW</strong>, il focus sulle materie prime naturali che <strong>Mane</strong> Italia ha intitolato "Le spezie in profumeria, il mondo del pepe". Perciò pepe è stata la parola chiave appesa sopra le nostre teste in sala conferenze, oltre al nome botanico di varie altre spezie. Infatti partendo dal classico olio essenziale di <strong>pepe nero</strong> (<em>piper nigrum</em>), l'oro nero della profumeria, il Direttore della Ricerca sugli ingredienti per la regione EMEA <b>Cyril Gallardo</b> ci ha fatto sentire la rispettiva <i>Pure Jungle Essence™</i> (un processo di estrazione supercritical brevettato da Mane) meno pungente che cattura però anche il calore rosato e legnoso delle bacche fresche. Poi sono seguite materie di tendenza come i frizzanti <strong>pepe di Sichuan </strong>(<span class="st"><i>Zanthoxylum piperitum</i>, un falso pepe</span>) e il <strong>pepe rosa </strong>(<em>schinus molle</em>, in verità un falso pepe dalle bacche rosa). La caccia a nuovi naturali ha portato Mane anche a produrre due nuove sorprendenti Pure Jungle Essence™ che la profumiera <b>Veronique Nyberg </b>ha utilizzato nella nuova linea di <b>Schwarzlose Parfum Captive</b>. Il primo è il <strong>pepe lungo</strong> (<i>piper longum</i>) ed il secondo è il <strong>pepe di Timur</strong> (<i>zanthoxylum armatum</i>, un altro falso pepe nella famiglia delle rutacee) entrambi coltivati in Nepal. Il primo possiede un'evoluzione incredibile da fresco e balsamico fino all'ambra con sfumature di vaniglia e cioccolato. Il secondo proviene da un accordo che Mane ha stretto con le popolazioni locali ai fini della sostenibilità e per preservare la biodiversità ed ha un frizzante aroma naturale di pompelmo che rivela poi una sapidità speziata. Fantastico!<br />
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-4108196794031928562017-09-29T17:32:00.002+02:002017-09-29T17:36:05.281+02:00Fragranze 15: Scent Diary #02<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<strong>Antonio Alessandria Parfums</strong><br />
The second part of my Scent Diary from Pitti Fragranze lands to Italy that continues to bring forth brilliant talent.Taking inspiration from <strong>Tomasi di Lampedusa</strong> novel <strong>The Leopard</strong> put on screen by <strong>Luchino Visconti</strong>, perfumer Antonio Alessandria’s latest addition <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Gattopardo</span></strong> portrays the Sicilian noble soul in chiaroscuro with a bright load of geranium, fig and whiskey set against the opulence of velvety patchouli gilded in beeswax, iris, cocoa and a luscious Sicilian almond pastry trail. Spray, close your eyes and you swear you were a guest of the imperious Don Fabrizio, Prince of Salina.<br />
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<strong>Maison Gabriello Chieffo</strong><br />
Not a male, not yet a female. <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Quasicielo</span></strong>, almost heaven, is the fragrance of transformation, of that stormy and yet incredibly blessed moment of a soul taking its way to harmony. This is the challenging inspiration Gabriella Chieffo chose for the first creation concocted on her own that reflects the struggling path of a boy balancing a vibrating balsamic-green dissonance with the serene tartness of fingerlime over a warm yummy amber.<br />
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<strong>Olivier Durbano</strong><br />
Conceived in the heart of the Perfume Valley aka Grasse, the poet of stones and perfumes Olivier Durbano launches his 13th creation. Olivier explained to me that the number 13 is very meaningful to him and represents a strong spiritual connection, like its trademark incense rising to the skies. Quintessiantly Durbano, <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Labradorite</span></strong> 13 is an uncompromising chamaleon of opposites: the blue of a salty freshness backed by the gold dust of amber, the aromatic greeness set against the darkness of animalic notes, all wrapped in ritual smoke swirls making it deep and longlasting.<br />
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<strong>Molinard</strong> <br />
While mentioning Grasse one cannot think of two things: endless fragrant rose fields and Molinard. <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Rosa Turkia</span></strong>, the latest addition of the house stands out in the <em>Les Éléments Prestige</em> line with its lush green, fruity and honeyed faceted waterfall of burgundy petals. That's what a rose soliflore lover could best expect, in the most sumptuous classical way.<br />
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<strong>Eris Parfums</strong><br />
Creativity and nonchalant beauty is always a staple when it comes to France, that’s why <strong>Scent & Subversion</strong> author and fellow blogger <strong>Barbara Hermann</strong> chose to collaborate with perfume genius <strong>Antoine Lie</strong> for <strong>ERIS Parfum</strong>. While the first creations focus on languid florals like the exquisitely aldehydic <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Belle de jour</span></strong>, the latest introduction called <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Mx.</span></strong> (refers to an appellation in addition to Mr. and Mrs., Ms, etc) pays tribute to gender fluidity with a spiced up yummy work on sandalwood and cocoa bearing leather hints.<br />
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One of the relevant cultural events promoted by Fragranze as usual is <strong>RAW</strong>, the focus on new natural raw materials this time <strong>Mane</strong> Italia dedicated to "Spices in perfumery, the world of peppers". So pepper was the keyword hanging on our heads in the conference room, along with the botanical name of various other spices. In fact starting from the the classic <strong>black pepper</strong> (<em>piper nigrum</em>) essential oil, the black gold of perfumery, Ingredients Director EMEA <b>Cyril Gallardo</b> led us smell the correspondent <em>Pure Jungle Essence™ </em>(a Mane patented supercritical extraction process), less pungent and also capturing the woody, rosy warmth from the fresh peppercorns. Later trendy materials were presented like the brighter <strong>Sichuan pepper</strong> (<span class="st"><i>Zanthoxylum piperitum</i>, a false pepper</span>) and <strong>pink pepper</strong> (<em>schinus molle</em>, a false pepper actually with pink berries). The quest for innovative naturals also led Mane to produce two new amazing Pure Jungle Essence™ which perfumer <b>Veronique Nyberg</b> used for the new <b>Schwarzlose Parfum Captive</b> Serie. The first is <strong>long pepper</strong> (<i>piper longum</i>) and the second is <strong>Timur pepper</strong> (<i>zanthoxylum armatum</i>, another false pepper in the rutacee family) both growing in Nepal. The first bears has an incredible evolution from fresh balsamic to chocolate and vanilla-tinged amber. The latter comes from an agreement between local populations and Mane aiming to support sustainability and biodiversity and has an incredibly natural grapefruit sparkle evolving to a woody saltiness. How amazing!<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-40349033003072322272017-09-20T00:23:00.000+02:002017-09-20T00:23:48.796+02:00Fragranze 15: Scent Diary #01<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Firenze è rinomata per l'arte rinascimentale ma anche per la calura estiva e gli habitué di Pitti Fragranze lo sanno bene. Non quest'anno però dato che i rovesci ed un calo delle temperature improvviso hanno assicurato una temperatura gradevole all'interno della Stazione Leopolda. Anche il vento del mercato del profumo è in continuo cambiamento e questa edizione ne ha mostrato i primi segni. Infatti mentre di solito gli stand sono suddivisi per distributore, l'ultima disposizione era suddivisa per marchio a favore di una maggior chiarezza e agevolezza regalando anche un appeal più internazionale. Da notare, visitatori ed espositori esteri sono cresciuti e <b>Fragranze 15</b> sarà ricordata come l'edizione <i>Pacifica</i> con un grande riscontro per marchi da Australia, Nuova Zelanda e Giappone. Vediamo assieme il meglio partendo dalla mia selezione per <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/the-best-fragrance-of-pitti-fragranze-2017-new-and-noteworthy-perfumes-draw/">Çafleurebon</a>.<br />
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<b>Grandiflora Fragrance</b><br />
Al fiorente marchio australiano Grandiflora Fragrance va il premio per lo stand più accattivante e indaffarato. La fondatrice <b>Saskia Havekes</b> ha allestito una chiccosissima serra zeppa di rose e ortensie rosa immerse nel verde esotico e lussureggiante per lasciarci affondare il naso fra i segreti dei fiori. Stuzzicante, erbacea ed ipnotico, mi ha colpito l'ultimo nato. <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Boronia</span></b>, costruito sulla costosa assoluta di boronia (preziosa come la rosa di Maggio e perciò raramente usata in profumeria) che <b>Bertrand Duchaufour</b> ha inondato della gloriosa ebbrezza alcolica per cui è famoso.<br />
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<b>ABEL</b><br />
Dall'Australia alla Nuova Zelanda, le misteriose vie del profumo hanno unito la strada dell'ex produttrice di vini <b>Frances Shoemack</b> con quella del profumiere <b>Isaac Sinclair</b> (che si è formato con nientemeno che il Maestro Profumiere <b>Maurice Roucel</b>) in Abel, una linea di cinque fragranze naturali con un approccio olistico ora basata ad Amsterdam. Sorprendenti l'eleganza contemporanea del concept e l'equilibrio delle loro creazioni. Subito fra i favoriti entrano l'etereo <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Golden Neroli </span></b>illuminato dal una magnolia croccante e da un accordo mate, e la radiosa <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Cobalt Amber</span></b> col suo abbraccio talcato, dolce e sapido al tempo stesso.<br />
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<b>DI SER</b><br />
La profumeria naturale sembra essere in lenta ma costante crescita in Europa e i creatori e i profumieri ne avvertono la magia anche grazie alla tavolozza di materie sempre più ampia oggi. Il marchio giapponese DI SER che torna a Firenze per la seconda volta di fila ne è un chiaro esempio e ci presenta interpretazioni non comuni dei naturali di tendenza prodotti da loro in Giappone. <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Mizu</span></b>è una ventata vivace di agrumi verdi grazie a un'eccellente essenza di yuzu mentre <span style="color: #38761d;"><b>Adameku</b></span> è un haiku sulle gioie sbocciate in un giardino autunnale che si affida ad una assoluta d'osmanto di primissima qualità.<br />
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<b>Miya Shinma</b><br />
Da Tokyo a Parigi più veloce di un tocco di colonia, la profumiera Miya Shinma presenta <i>Les Eau de Miya Shinma</i>, una gamma sofisticata di cinque colonie scandite da diversi colori. Yamabuki (giallo) è un'insolita interpretazione solare e zeppa di ylang-ylang della Kerria Japonica, nota anche come rosa del Giappone. Stimolante anche Kikyo (viola) col suo mix di spezie calde su un misterioso fondo chypre.<br />
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L'oriente incontra l'occidente: un ringraziamento particolare va a Profumi del Forte che ci ha regalato una performance dal vivo di ikebana in collaborazione con <b>Sogetsu Concentus Study Group</b>. Il maestro toscano <b>Luca Ramacciotti</b> ha tradotto alcune fragranze del marchio in ikebana, unendo così l'ammirazione giapponese per la natura con la connessione che <b>Profumi del Forte </b>ha con la bella Versilia. Non ho resistito ed ho chiesto a Luca come ha pensato il suo ikebana preferito.<br />
“<i>Come un profumo, l'ikebana ha una nascita, uno sviluppo ed un'evanescenza. Entrambi utilizzano materiale vegetale ed è interessante vedere come si può visualizzare un profumo attraverso l'ikebana ricreandone l'idea di base, il racconto o l'impatto emotivo attraverso i sentori che lo compongono. Qui sono andato da alcune delle note di Mythical Woods dei Profumi del Forte come lo zenzero e i legni all'idea del colore di lamponi e zafferano</i>”.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto di Rimaldo Serra</td></tr>
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-26242755334091628272017-09-20T00:17:00.000+02:002017-09-20T00:17:42.008+02:00Fragranze 15: Scent Diary #01<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Florence is renowned for Renaissance art but also for the heat in summer and regular attendees to Pitti Fragranze know it very well. Not this year though as a sudden temperature dip with downpours kept the Stazione Leopolda interior cool and enjoyable. Also the wind of the perfume market is ever-changing and this edition shown the first signs of this. In fact while usually booths are mostly divided by Italian distributors, the current layout was divided by brand so that everything was clearly displayed, easily accessible and with a more international appeal. Notably, visitors and exhibitors from overseas notably increased and <b>Fragranze 15</b> will be remembered as the <i>Pacific</i> edition with successful offerings from brands from Australia, New Zealand and Japan. Let's see the best starting from my choices for <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/the-best-fragrance-of-pitti-fragranze-2017-new-and-noteworthy-perfumes-draw/">Çafleurebon</a>.<br />
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<b>Grandiflora Fragrance</b><br />
Australia’s blooming brand Grandiflora Fragrance wins the prize for the most eyecatching and busiest booth. Founder <b>Saskia Havekes</b> set an uberchic greenhouse bursting with pink roses, hydrangeas and lush exotic greens to let us plunge our noses into the secrets of flowers. I was smitten by the herbal, narcotic piquancy of the latest addition. <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Boronia</span></b>, created with the expensive boronia absolute (as precious as May rose and thus seldom used in perfumes) and <b>Bertrand Duchaufour</b> laden with the glorious booziness he’s famous for.<br />
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<b>ABEL</b><br />
From Australia to New Zealand, the mysterious ways of scent led former winemaker <b>Frances Shoemack</b> to team with perfumer <b>Isaac Sinclair</b> (trained by no less than Master Perfumer <b>Maurice Roucel</b>) in Abel, a now Amsterdam based line of five 100% natural perfumes with a holistic approach. I was so amazed by the contemporary elegance of the concept and the flawless balance of their creations. Instant favorites are the ethereal <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Golden Neroli </span></b>brightened by a crisp magnolia and mate accord, and the radiance of <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Cobalt Amber</span></b> with its powdery, sweet and salty warmth.<br />
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<b>DI SER</b><br />
Natural perfumery seems to be slowly but steadily increasing over in Europe and creatives and perfumers feel the magic of it, also because of the wider natural palette available today. Japanese brand DI SER travels to Florence for the second year in a row, as a bright example of this, bringing uncommon interpretations of trendy naturals they produce in Japan. <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Mizu</span></b> is a lively blast of citric greenness thanks to an outstanding yuzu essence while <span style="color: #38761d;"><b>Adameku</b></span> is a haiku on the blooming joys of a fall garden built around a top notch osmanthus absolute.<br />
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<b>Miya Shinma</b><br />
Tokyo to Paris quicker than a cologne dab, perfumer Miya Shinma introduces <i>Les Eau de Miya Shinma</i>, a sophisticated palette of five colognes matching different colors. Yamabuki (yellow) is an unusual sunny, ylang-ylang based interpretation of Kerria Japonica, the so called Japanese rose. Also Kikyo (purple) is a stimulating mix of warm spices wrapped in a mysterious chypre base<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0px;">.</span><br />
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East meets West: A special acknowledgment goes to the ikebana live performance Profumi del Forte gave in collaboration with <b>Sogetsu Concentus Study Group</b>. Tuscan master <b>Luca Ramacciotti</b> translated a few fragrances from the brand to Ikebana, bridging so Japanese worship for nature with <b>Profumi del Forte </b>connection with the Versilia beautiful territory. I couldn’t help but asking Luca about his favorite ikebana.<br />
“<i>As for perfume, ikebana starts, develops and fades. Both use vegetal materials and it’s interesting to see how ikebana can render a perfume re-creating the main idea, the storytelling or the emotional impact playing with its notes. Here I started from some of the Profumi del Forte Mythical Woods notes like ginger and woods to picture the idea of the color of raspberries and saffron</i>”.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Rimaldo Serra</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-31010780245149047462017-09-06T09:35:00.002+02:002017-09-06T10:38:11.649+02:00Rose Poivrée di The Different Company (J. C. Ellena, 2000)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRSMnZ-ACcTsJPlfSowh9rCrZ6QCI263kmPbTfwgf8EBVuKHOW4GAOasgsg22dnsxbAZMy6k_FJhKIFc6RiG1lG3MGNAyHBimcmalayNpZh72VR18Hfrz_HryacNgjHGtbKnWFLNQP57qv/s1600/rose_poivree_-300x300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRSMnZ-ACcTsJPlfSowh9rCrZ6QCI263kmPbTfwgf8EBVuKHOW4GAOasgsg22dnsxbAZMy6k_FJhKIFc6RiG1lG3MGNAyHBimcmalayNpZh72VR18Hfrz_HryacNgjHGtbKnWFLNQP57qv/s1600/rose_poivree_-300x300.jpg" /></a>
Questo articolo è apparso fra i <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/cafleurebon-modern-masterpieces-the-different-company-rose-poivree-jean-claude-ellena-2000-salt-and-pepper-rose/">CaFleureBon Modern Masterpieces</a> lo scorso febbraio e lo condivido con piacere anche qui.<br />
Nel 2000, quando <b>Jean-Claude Ellena</b> ha iniziato la sua carriera di profumiere indipendente fondando <b>The Different Company</b> assieme al suo vecchio collega di Grasse <b>Thierry de Baschmakoff</b>, ha intrapreso il passo più importante nel suo percorso estetico. Avevano già lavorato assieme nel 1992, quando de Baschmakoff disegnò per il gioielliere italiano <b>Bulgari</b> la bottiglia verde satinata che ospita l'astringente eleganza di <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert</span></b> di Jean-Claude Ellena. Dato che la collaborazione aveva funzionato a meraviglia (dando inizio alla moda delle fragranze al the verde degli anni '90), non ci si deve stupire che abbiano deciso di collaborare ad una nuova impresa profumata. <br />
The Different Company come nessun altro in quegli anni cercava di esplorare un nuovo approccio alla profumeria. Subito dopo il debutto, ricordo di aver letto in una intervista Ellena dire “<i>che tutti negli anni '90 volevano profumi di pulito, inoffensivi o dolci come biscotti</i>”. Nonostante l'idea di associare l'odorato ed il gusto fosse in voga, Jean-Claude Ellena partì da un approccio diverso usando sale e pepe che diventarono la spina dorsale di <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Rose Poivrée</span></b>, la madre di tutte le rose salate e pepate del XXI secolo. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parfumerie Bruno Court, Grasse<br />
Le triage des roses, cartolina del XIX secolo</td></tr>
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La prima edizione di Rose Poivrée in eau de toilette dava l'impressione che qualcuno ti avesse pizzicato il naso nelle note di testa a causa della vivacità vegetale del pepe rosa e della frizzantezza del bergamotto che battono forte su per le narici. Ricordo come fosse shockante sentire anche il retrogusto sapido dell'iso-e super in overdose col vetiver che mi ha dato l'impressione di annusare quelle graziose saliere con dentro veri petali di rosa che si trovano nei mercatini intorno a Grasse. L'attuale eau de parfum ha note di testa più smussate focalizzandosi sull'aspetto ceroso e confettato rosa-frutti rossi del cuore e tuttavia il contrasto è ancora da leccarsi le labbra.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rose Poivrée al Musée de la Parfumerie</td></tr>
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<span id="goog_706575204"></span>Seppure il tema chypre rosa-lampone alla base di creazioni degli anni ‘70s come <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Amazone</span></b> di <b>Maurice Maurin</b> (che Jean Claude Ellena ha riorchestrato più volte) non sia nuovo di per se, l'assetto neo-chypre di Rose Poivrée lo immerge nella luce sovraesposta di un vellutato deserto di sale, contrapponendola all'intossicazione speziata e corporea di coriandolo, cumino ed elicriso che aggiunge rimandi culinari indiani come un altro capolavoro classico, <a href="http://lagardenianellocchiello.blogspot.it/2013/01/blind-sniff-roulette-1-femme-di-rochas.html">Femme di Rochas</a> nientemeno, la bomba sexy della II guerra mondiale creata da <a href="http://lagardenianellocchiello.blogspot.it/2013/02/i-maestri-del-profumo-edmond-roudnitska.html">Edmond Roudnitska</a>. <br />
Così avanti, eppure così profondamente legato alla profumeria francese classica, Rose Poivrée è stato scelto per un'installazione permanente al <b>Musée de la Parfumerie</b> di Parigi.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sale alla rosa e bacche rosa</td></tr>
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Amando cibo e profumi, ho subito confrontato Rose Poivrée con la marmellata di rose che ho comprato l'estate scorsa in Croazia (da provare assolutamente se amate le rose) cosparsa di bacche rosa su una fetta biscottata (la traccia di cumin nel fondo aggiunge di certo quella patina tostata). Più di ogni incursione nella storia della profumeria e nelle materie prime, questo è il miglior modo, il più semplice per capire come Jean Claude Ellena ha dato forma alla sua visione di un “<i>gourmand diverso</i>”, facendo di Rose Poivrée un capolavoro moderno.<br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-51878981027455322742017-09-06T09:33:00.000+02:002017-09-06T09:33:28.093+02:00The Different Company Rose Poivrée (J. C. Ellena, 2000)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRSMnZ-ACcTsJPlfSowh9rCrZ6QCI263kmPbTfwgf8EBVuKHOW4GAOasgsg22dnsxbAZMy6k_FJhKIFc6RiG1lG3MGNAyHBimcmalayNpZh72VR18Hfrz_HryacNgjHGtbKnWFLNQP57qv/s1600/rose_poivree_-300x300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRSMnZ-ACcTsJPlfSowh9rCrZ6QCI263kmPbTfwgf8EBVuKHOW4GAOasgsg22dnsxbAZMy6k_FJhKIFc6RiG1lG3MGNAyHBimcmalayNpZh72VR18Hfrz_HryacNgjHGtbKnWFLNQP57qv/s1600/rose_poivree_-300x300.jpg" /></a>
This review appeared in the <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/cafleurebon-modern-masterpieces-the-different-company-rose-poivree-jean-claude-ellena-2000-salt-and-pepper-rose/">CaFleureBon Modern Masterpieces</a> last February and I'm happy share it also here.<br />
In 2000, when <b>Jean-Claude Ellena</b> started his path as an independent perfumer, founding <b>The Different Company</b> with his long time Grassois colleague <b>Thierry de Baschmakoff</b>, he took the most important step in his aesthetic path. They had worked together previously in 1992, when de Baschmakoff designed for the Italian Jewel Designer <b>Bulgari</b> the frosted green bottle housing Jean-Claude Ellena’s astringently elegant <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert</span></b>. Since the collaboration worked beautifully (setting the green tea trend that was prevalent in the 90s), it’s no wonder they decided to collaborate on a new perfume company. <br />
The Different Company was unlike anything of its time as they sought to explore a new approach to perfumery. Right after the launch, I recall reading in an interview with M. Ellena “<i>that everybody in the 1990s wanted to smell clean, harmless or sweet as a cookie</i>”. Whilst the idea of associating smell with taste was fashionable, Jean-Claude Ellena took a different approach with using salt and pepper which became the backbone of <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Rose Poivrée</span></b>, the mother of all peppery, salty roses of the XXI century. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parfumerie Bruno Court, Grasse<br />
Le triage des roses, XIX century postcard</td></tr>
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The first rendition of Rose Poivrée in eau de toilette concentration felt like someone pinched your nose on top because of the vegetal liveliness of pink pepper and crisp bergamot pushing hard up your nostrils. I remember it was shocking to sense even the savory aftertaste of overdosed iso-e super with vetiver that took my nose straight into those cute salt jars with real rose petals inside you can get in the markets around Grasse. The current eau de parfum concentration has smoother top notes focusing more on the waxy, jammy rose-red berries heart and yet the contrast still is lip-smacking.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rose Poivrée at the Musée de la Parfumerie</td></tr>
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<span id="goog_706575204"></span>Whether the rose-raspberry chypre theme rooted in the ‘70s creations like <b>Maurice Maurin</b>’s <b><span style="color: #38761d;">Amazone</span></b> for <strong>Hermès </strong>(that Jean Claude Ellena reworked more than once) isn’t new itself, the neo-chypre set in Rose Poivrée drenches it in the overexposed light of salty velvet dryness backed by the human spiced intoxication of coriander, cumin and immortelle that add one more Indian foody connection echoing another classic masterpiece, no less than <a href="http://lagardenianellocchiello.blogspot.it/2013/02/the-masters-of-perfume-edmond.html">Edmond Roudnitska</a>’s WWII sex bomb <a href="http://lagardenianellocchiello.blogspot.it/2013/01/blind-sniff-roulette-1-rochas-femme.html">Rochas Femme</a>.<br />
Being so forward and yet so deeply rooted in classic French perfumery, Rose Poivrée was chosen as a permanent installation at the <b>Musée de la Parfumerie</b> in Paris.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roses salt with pink peppercorns</td></tr>
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As perfume and food lover I immediately compare Rose Poivrée to the rose jam that I bought last summer in Croatia (a must try for rose lovers too) sprinkled with crushed pink peppercorns over a melba toast (the soupçon of cumin in the basenotes surely adds that grilled warmth). More than any insight into perfume history and raw materials, this is the best and easiest way to understand how Jean Claude Ellena shaped his own vision of a “<i>different gourmand</i>”, making Rose Poivrée a Modern Masterpiece.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-27284315673822815042017-08-25T13:06:00.002+02:002017-08-25T13:06:32.088+02:00Fragranze 15: a presto!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKxcvH-M4wFfEr6quTnrRkDDUAMmMuBIGurK7hS5IpEss3_dWdkwnAcx8hHClUzu-9vRd6vGYgzJ9BrWfVwt-fgF6ZAOGmEvx3Ry6hZoH8EDqWR9a8axXbb5ctYUAJfLkHbFwKiby0mjMU/s1600/Fragranze-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1033" data-original-width="1600" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKxcvH-M4wFfEr6quTnrRkDDUAMmMuBIGurK7hS5IpEss3_dWdkwnAcx8hHClUzu-9vRd6vGYgzJ9BrWfVwt-fgF6ZAOGmEvx3Ry6hZoH8EDqWR9a8axXbb5ctYUAJfLkHbFwKiby0mjMU/s320/Fragranze-01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span lang="">Passato ferragosto, c'è chi soffre la malinconia da rientro e chi invece arriva carico per affrontare il nuovo anno lavorativo. In città la metropolitana si ripopola di volti abbronzati e profumi che cercano di prolungare l'illusione delle spiagge assolate. Prima che crollino le temperature però non manca qualche weekend fuori porta in programma e, per un perfumista gli occhi sono puntati su <strong>Pitti Fragranze</strong>, che quest'anno sarà nei giorni <strong>8-10 settembre</strong>, per scoprire cosa ci spruzzeremo da qui alla prossima estate.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fabrice Leclerc</td></tr>
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Questa quindicesima edizione porta a Firenze diversi appuntamenti ormai consolidati. Prima di tutto quello di <strong>venerdì 8</strong> <strong>alle</strong> <strong>ore 11.00</strong> con <strong>RAW</strong>, il format di Pitti Fragranze che dà spazio, a ogni edizione, alle più importanti materie prime del profumo: <strong>Michaela Giamberti</strong>, direttore divisione fragranze di <strong>Mane </strong>Italia parlerà delle <em>Spezie Esotiche</em>, la cui essenza è al centro di tante creazioni della profumeria. A seguire nel pomeriggio una tavola rotonda condotta dall'esperto <strong>Fabrice Leclerc</strong> su un tema molto attuale, <em>L'etica e la sostenibilità della profumeria</em>. Da annotare al carnet anche l'appuntamento <em>off-Pitti</em> di <strong>Olfattorio</strong> con <strong>Inflorescent - Respect for nature</strong> al <strong>Polimoda</strong>. Eccovi il <a href="http://www.pittimmagine.com/corporate/fairs/fragranze/calendario.html">calendario completo degli eventi</a>.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">con Sarah McCartney a Fragranze 14</td></tr>
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Sul fronte novità invece non mancheranno lanci interessanti di cui ho già avuto succulente anteprime da <strong>Antonio Alessandria</strong> e <strong>Gabriella Chieffo</strong> ed il debutto in fiera di <strong>Francesca Bianchi</strong>. Tornano in Italia anche la fiorista più chic di Sidney <strong>Saskia Havekes</strong> col suo brand <strong>Grandiflora</strong> che lancia una stuzzicante <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Boronia</span></strong> e la spassosa <strong>Sarah McCartney</strong> di <strong>4160 Thuesday</strong> con una nuova linea, <strong>Our Modern Lives</strong>. Altro debutto a Pitti sulla mia lista sono gli <strong>Eris Parfums</strong> della blogger e collezionista di vintage americana <strong>Barbara Herman</strong><span lang="">. </span><br />
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Io ci sarò per le prime impressioni in diretta su <a href="https://www.instagram.com/magnifiscent/?hl=it">Instagram</a>, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/lagardenianellocchiello.nellocchiello/">Facebook</a> e <a href="https://twitter.com/LaGardeniOcchie">Twitter</a> delle cose più stuzzicanti, seguite naturalmente da un dettagliato Scent Diary qui. Spero di incontrare chi di voi sarà presente per scambiare quattro chiacchiere e magari sniffare assieme delle belle creazioni! <em>A presto!</em>
</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497375210793278232.post-84647983392063603522017-08-25T13:04:00.001+02:002017-08-25T13:04:45.376+02:00Fragranze 15: see you soon!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKxcvH-M4wFfEr6quTnrRkDDUAMmMuBIGurK7hS5IpEss3_dWdkwnAcx8hHClUzu-9vRd6vGYgzJ9BrWfVwt-fgF6ZAOGmEvx3Ry6hZoH8EDqWR9a8axXbb5ctYUAJfLkHbFwKiby0mjMU/s1600/Fragranze-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1033" data-original-width="1600" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKxcvH-M4wFfEr6quTnrRkDDUAMmMuBIGurK7hS5IpEss3_dWdkwnAcx8hHClUzu-9vRd6vGYgzJ9BrWfVwt-fgF6ZAOGmEvx3Ry6hZoH8EDqWR9a8axXbb5ctYUAJfLkHbFwKiby0mjMU/s320/Fragranze-01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
After the dog days and with August blues at best, some try to leverage on the energy gained during the holidays to start a new work year. Downtown the tube is populated with tanned faces and smells trying to extend the illusion of sunny beaches. Before temperature falls down though, there will be still time for some weekend off and for a perfumista <strong>Pitti Fragranze</strong> is on the to do list of course, scheduled on <strong>September 8-10</strong>, to discover what's new to spray on from here to the next summer.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fabrice Leclerc</td></tr>
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The fifteenth edition brings to Florence various well established events. First of all on <strong>Friday 8 at 11.00 am RAW</strong>, the Pitti Fragranze format focusing on the most important raw materials in perfumery: <strong>Mane</strong> Italia fine fragrances division director <strong>Michaela Giamberti</strong> will speak about <em>Exotic Spices</em>, essences that are at the core of many creations in perfumery. Later in the afternoon a round table led by the expert <strong>Fabrice Leclerc</strong> will focus on a hot topic right now, <em>Ethics and sustainability in perfumery</em>. Save also the date for the <em>off-Pitti</em> event with <strong>Olfattorio</strong> <strong>Inflorescent - Respect for nature</strong> at <strong>Polimoda</strong>. Here's the <a href="http://www.pittimmagine.com/en/corporate/fairs/fragranze/calendario.html">full agenda</a>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">with Sarah McCartney at Fragranze 14</td></tr>
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Speaking about news we won't be disappointed by interesting launches as the ones which I had a succulent preview by <strong>Antonio Alessandria</strong> and <strong>Gabriella Chieffo</strong> and the debut of <strong>Francesca Bianchi</strong> to the show. Welcome back to Italy also to the most chic florist in Sidney <strong>Saskia Havekes </strong>and her brand <strong>Grandiflora</strong> launching an interesting <strong><span style="color: #38761d;">Boronia</span></strong>, and to the amazing <strong>4160 Thuesday </strong>founder <strong>Sarah McCartney</strong> introducing the new line <strong>Our Modern Lives</strong>. Another debut at Pitti on my list is fellow American blogger and vintage collector <strong>Barbara Herman</strong>'s <strong>Eris Parfums</strong><span lang="">.</span><br />
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I'll be there dispatching first impressions on the most exciting things live through <a href="https://www.instagram.com/magnifiscent/?hl=it">Instagram</a>, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/lagardenianellocchiello.nellocchiello/">Facebook</a> and <a href="https://twitter.com/LaGardeniOcchie">Twitter</a>, of course followed by the detailed Scent Diary here. I hope we can meet for some chitchat and maybe have the chance to sniff beautiful creations together! <em>See you soon!</em>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0