Less than a month ago we saw at Esxence 2016 more and more international visitors, which on one hand is a proof niche perfumery is less and less niche and a wide public nowadays knows and enjoys it. On the other hand this rises a warning about too many launches, staying true to the original spirit of indie perfumery, pursuing original inspirations more than market trends and easy money. More and more this will draw the line dividing true indie perfumery from the grey area of the I'd love to be commercial, but I can't.Despite the increasing presence of real (and fake) middle eastern brands, the infinity symbol 8 still crowns Italy as the land of neverending creativity also confirmed by the success overseas of italian perfumers like Maria Candida Gentile, Antonio Alessandria, Cristiano Canali, Luca Maffei and Michele Marin. Let's start so with the first part of the Scent Diary all white, red and green.
The nu_be creative team, now One of Those (tracks for humans) introduces together with the logo change also a new serie or radioactive elements dressed in a snow-white coat. Curium [96Cm] eau de parfum is a love declaration for the new Eve of Science, Marie Curie with her obsession for research and her scandalous secret love story. Silvery orris powder and spices, Evelyne Boulanger's concoction reveals a cocoa-sprinkled feminine skin veiled by the soft floralcy of musks, the most sublime error of Chemistry.
Maria Candida Gentile
A dadaist rose, decomposed and recomposed, it's Rrose Sèlavy, the new addition to Maria Candida Gentile collection that takes inspiration from Marcel Duchamp's feminine alter ego. Tender honeyed petals scattered with champagne rosé give way to the aromatic liveliness of the stem and the spiced cheekiness of spikes. That's the secret touch of this bright eau de parfum. A bouquet upside-down perfect on a woman but even more dangerous on a man who likes to break the rules.
A date, physical attraction, words flowing like subtitles under a sequence of frames: details, gestures and meaningful looks. Haused in the new 30 ml flacon also guesting Romanza, L'Attesa is the iris soliflore eau de parfum created by Luca Maffei exuding the rarefied elegance of a James Ivory movie and the perlage of a Grand Cru Brut (Riccardo Tedeschi is a champagne connoisseur and was so nice to guide me through a perfume and Bollinger tasting) smelling of bread crust and skin tinged by a naughty veil of makeup. For the lovers of silences that speak.
From fashion to perfume it's a short step. A step Chiara Ronzani, Extrait d'Atelier creative director skillfully takes focusing on the magical process involving masterful craftsmanship and matter that results in a fascinating lab smells backstage. Oc course the concept itself is no news, nevertheless Maitre Couturier (a soft luminous musk), Maitre Chausseur (a spicy and slightly animalic leather) and Maitre Joaillier (balsamic and mineral) strike as a debut trio of modernist fumes (also in the packaging) with a concise yet bold, evocative style.
The latest addition to Gabriella Chieffo's line Maisìa is inspired by the story of a beautiful woman condemned as a witch for her free spirit. Mai sìa (meaning never let it be) is what people said while the woman was sent to the stake and is an hymn to strong femininity. Also the eau de parfum created by Luca Maffei shows this duality in the fig theme mixing the sweet feminine side of the fruit of wisdom with mediterranean wild broom, symbol of pride. Smoke and ashes hints complete the basenotes for a special sillage.
HomoElegans, stating the elegant man is the next evolution step after the homo sapiens, is a made in Italy brand born in 2015. Its first appearence at Esxence is one more proof of how creative can be the new Italian perfumery. Inspired by the movie Death in Venice, Tadzio eau de parfum created by Michele Marin renders with thirst-quenching vegetal and marine touches over an almost chypre base the uberchic Luchino Visconti imaginary without cheap nostalgia.