29 settembre 2017
The second part of my Scent Diary from Pitti Fragranze lands to Italy that continues to bring forth brilliant talent.Taking inspiration from Tomasi di Lampedusa novel The Leopard put on screen by Luchino Visconti, perfumer Antonio Alessandria’s latest addition Gattopardo portrays the Sicilian noble soul in chiaroscuro with a bright load of geranium, fig and whiskey set against the opulence of velvety patchouli gilded in beeswax, iris, cocoa and a luscious Sicilian almond pastry trail. Spray, close your eyes and you swear you were a guest of the imperious Don Fabrizio, Prince of Salina.
Not a male, not yet a female. Quasicielo, almost heaven, is the fragrance of transformation, of that stormy and yet incredibly blessed moment of a soul taking its way to harmony. This is the challenging inspiration Gabriella Chieffo chose for the first creation concocted on her own that reflects the struggling path of a boy balancing a vibrating balsamic-green dissonance with the serene tartness of fingerlime over a warm yummy amber.
Conceived in the heart of the Perfume Valley aka Grasse, the poet of stones and perfumes Olivier Durbano launches his 13th creation. Olivier explained to me that the number 13 is very meaningful to him and represents a strong spiritual connection, like its trademark incense rising to the skies. Quintessiantly Durbano, Labradorite 13 is an uncompromising chamaleon of opposites: the blue of a salty freshness backed by the gold dust of amber, the aromatic greeness set against the darkness of animalic notes, all wrapped in ritual smoke swirls making it deep and longlasting.
While mentioning Grasse one cannot think of two things: endless fragrant rose fields and Molinard. Rosa Turkia, the latest addition of the house stands out in the Les Éléments Prestige line with its lush green, fruity and honeyed faceted waterfall of burgundy petals. That's what a rose soliflore lover could best expect, in the most sumptuous classical way.
Creativity and nonchalant beauty is always a staple when it comes to France, that’s why Scent & Subversion author and fellow blogger Barbara Hermann chose to collaborate with perfume genius Antoine Lie for ERIS Parfum. While the first creations focus on languid florals like the exquisitely aldehydic Belle de jour, the latest introduction called Mx. (refers to an appellation in addition to Mr. and Mrs., Ms, etc) pays tribute to gender fluidity with a spiced up yummy work on sandalwood and cocoa bearing leather hints.
One of the relevant cultural events promoted by Fragranze as usual is RAW, the focus on new natural raw materials this time Mane Italia dedicated to "Spices in perfumery, the world of peppers". So pepper was the keyword hanging on our heads in the conference room, along with the botanical name of various other spices. In fact starting from the the classic black pepper (piper nigrum) essential oil, the black gold of perfumery, Ingredients Director EMEA Cyril Gallardo led us smell the correspondent Pure Jungle Essence™ (a Mane patented supercritical extraction process), less pungent and also capturing the woody, rosy warmth from the fresh peppercorns. Later trendy materials were presented like the brighter Sichuan pepper (Zanthoxylum piperitum, a false pepper) and pink pepper (schinus molle, a false pepper actually with pink berries). The quest for innovative naturals also led Mane to produce two new amazing Pure Jungle Essence™ which perfumer Veronique Nyberg used for the new Schwarzlose Parfum Captive Serie. The first is long pepper (piper longum) and the second is Timur pepper (zanthoxylum armatum, another false pepper in the rutacee family) both growing in Nepal. The first bears has an incredible evolution from fresh balsamic to chocolate and vanilla-tinged amber. The latter comes from an agreement between local populations and Mane aiming to support sustainability and biodiversity and has an incredibly natural grapefruit sparkle evolving to a woody saltiness. How amazing!