The revamping of carnation over the last few years has surely fostered the current spicy floral trend. Technique Indiscrète was finally back to Florence after three years absence with the lovely Fleur de Papier. Antwerp based perfumer Libertin Louison imagines the smell of a flower print on a giant advertising, a surrealist huge carnation carrying a bit of the wet paper and glue smell that makes it slick and funky.
Another superclassic remastered by perfumer Marc Antoine Corticchiato is the new La Parfumerie Moderne Belles Rives. When everybody’s shouting, silence is the ultimate luxury seems to whisper this woody iris taking inspiration from the most luxurious and quite hotel in the Geneva lake. Florentine iris here is depicted with slight floral strokes of jasmin and osmanthus over a solid bed of ambery woods ruled by the aloofness of Texan cedarwood.
A honorable mention goes to Peccato Originale creative director Silvia Monti for the most oddly amazing storyline of the show. Forget about travels to exotic places, old books of formulas and heritage or love stories as Gas Antisociale (antisocial gas, complete with mask blotters) with its woody-spicy rose aims to be an antidote to keep away malefic narcissists affected by antisocial behavior and paranoia who tend to always celebrate themselves.
|Sarah McCartney and me playing Star Wars battle: natural vs. synthetic|
Another mention goes to 4160Tuesdays perfumer Sarah McCartney for Our Modern Lives, the new line featuring seven 100% natural perfumes (some of the blends she used them practicing yoga for more than 20 years) plus two 100% synthetic ones. The concept is a brilliant way to show the Star Wars in perfumery has no dark side. Layering Sarah’s creations, people can understand the beauty in both making peace in the perfume galaxy. My favorite combination for example is Acquamarine Waves (natural citrus marine) + Beta (synthetic amber).
I want to call out Parco 1923, an eco-friendly perfume and bath line scented by Luca Maffei suggests the freshness of the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo (think of the Italian Yosemite Park) forest. To strengthen even more the connection with the territory, part of the income from the sales is devolved to save the native species.