8 aprile 2015

Esxence 2015: Keynotes (part II)

In addition to oud and eastern cultures following the Heritage trend, also european tradition gives space for inspiration. Thus Majda Bekkali reflects about our world thinking of the peaceful and multiethnic Toledo in the reneissance period for Tulaytulah (ancient name of the town), a contemporary interpretation of the peau d'Espagne theme Delphine Thierry (Tendre est la nuit) drenches in bitter almond milk. Also Institut Très Bien revives its classic colognes linked to the french tradition of Beauty Salons. Even looking at the packages the deco inspiration is evident by the load of black and white, metal and laquered cases and travel sprays that seem just picked by Mae West from her clutch. The chicest of them all? Sharp lines, sleek metal and polychrome ceramics, the one proposed by parisian jeweler Ann Gerard.

Dealing with themes more exquisitely related to Italy, there are the floral embrace of mother earth in Iris Mater by Castello di Ama, the aromatic strength of the more classical Fougère Nobile by Nobile 1946 and the more contemporary Rubini Fundamental with its unexpectedly elegant take on Florentine iris. I also need to properly sniff again UNUM Opus 1144 from the eclectic Filippo Sorcinelli, visual artist, designer and musician who mixes the tradition of his family for sacred paraments tailoring to the languourous graveyard Spoon River-like allure.

The second big trend I saw is about travels. escapes and sunny places. To faraway paradises are dedicated both Une Nuit à Bali Fleur de Fleurs and Flowersea by Jacques Zolty. It's ready to sail also the Collection Croisière by Pierre Guillaume who left the comfort-smell of carbs to replace it with the smell of white sands and suntan lotions. It's a no return journey on your skin Atramental (meaning dark as ink in french) by Room 1015. The unusual biting inked opening Anne-Sophie Behaghel concocted for Dr. Mike, stage name of the former pharmacist and rocker Michaël Partouche speaks about his fetish for the sunny, musky, chemmed-up smell of freshly tatooed skin. The most radiant olfactory escape though is Pichola, brand-new creation by master perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour for Neela Vermeire. I've never been to Udaipur, but the breeze coming from this lake surely smells of silky petals, sundrenched skin and sipping coctails on a terrace in exclusive holiday resorts from the 1930s.

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