Bottle by Georges Chevalier for Baccarat |
It's a trip to hell of a new Orpheus, forgetful of love and hopes, an Orpheus whos Eurydice is damned forever and whos descent will lead to a cosmic resignation, a tearless cry, almost feeling compassion and regret for who doesn't have this burden.
As mentioned in the initial quote from the Westcar Papyrus, Djedi was a priest, healer and magician having wisdom and even the power to take back to life the deads. It's said that Jacques Guerlain started composing this gem many years before, even during the first years of XX century but it was launched only in 1926 with the name of Djedi probably inspired by the imposing discovery by Howard Carter of the tomb of Tutankamon in 1923 and linked with the esoteric aura in fashion in Paris at that time. Unfortunately there's no trace of the original 1926 scent if not for the few lucky people that nowadays will anyway just enjoy the beautiful bottle designed by Georges Chevalier for Baccarat with its art decò refined lines slightly reminescent a golden aegyptian sarcophagus with its lid open. It has been sold just for few years and I bet that, even if it's an extremely elegant perfume, it has been around for few years and then discontinuated because it was too avant-garde for that era. Djedi with its angular, cold and unmoved vetiver shows how Guerlain was a century ahead of the taste of his contemporaries anticipating tendencies that would have arrived only nowadays in perfumery. To know how the original Djedi was we don't have other chances that trusting on the rendition that the House of Guerlain did in 1996 to celebrate seventy years since its launch, in a numbered limited edition of a thousand Baccarat crystal bottles similar to the ones guesting the Jicky parfum. I've been so lucky to smell it on my skin thanks to the courtesy of a passionate friend.
Agostino Arrivabene - Lo psiconauta |
The base becomes more powdery and soft with iris root and a whiff of musk but it's not enough to warm up the heart of this icy cold creature and its immediately balanced by inky oakmoss and a musty patchouli and by birch tar with resinous tones keeping it back to the darkness.
As many say, I recall all the matching points with Vero Kern's Onda parfum that also springs out of an animalic vetiver but where Djedi is solemn shade and lonelyness, Onda is temper, vital force and warm sensuality given by a huge amount of honey and above all beeswax.
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