|Yuri Gutsatz in 1952|
After that meeting, Yuri Gutsatz will work at Givaudan (Roure Bertrand Fils et Justin Dupont back in time) for more than thirty years and later in 1975 will enstablish Le Jardin Retrouvé, the first independent niche perfume house right before Jean Laporte would follow his example with L'Artisan Parfumeur.
|Le Jardin Retrouvé sample set|
In this sense. his masterpiece has been the Osmothèque Versailles, the first and foremost perfume museum founded together with other nine Master Perfumers like Jean Paul Guerlain, Jean Kerléo and Jean Claude Ellena to preserve olfactory art in its original form. In particular I like to remember it's thants to the work of Yuri Gutsatz we nowadays can talk about Paul Poiret and Parfum de Rosine non only as a bunch of silent beautiful glasses.
My favorites are pretty opposites (ah, the dual edge of gemini!): Citron Boboli o Cuir de Russie, now which one to go for? Citron Boboli brings me to a lemon house where they just got the trees in for the winter and yet they still smell of sun, soil and warm spices. But how to resist to the fetish pleasure of leather?
|Illustration for Narcisse - Leon Bakst (1911)|
Cuir de Russie honors all the promises in its name: there's Paris right after WWI, it's winter and the snow whitens the roofs bringing a touch of Russian nostalgia to the expats like Yuri Gutsatz. There are the Ballets Russes echoing under the arcades of the Théâtre du Châtelet. In fact the fragrance opens with a violet as androgynous and exuberant as Nijinsky, bistred faunus in smoke-black and cade dancing on the notes of Debussy. The breath of this mythical creature smells of skin and wind, of violet leaves and tobacco. His path is brightened by a ray of ylang ylang and paved with a beautiful oakmoss velvet, slightly dusted with cinnamon and clove redolent of the great chypre masterpieces Diaghilev used to wear.
This winter surely it will make me good company while wearing leather gloves and boots like an Imperial Guard!
|The founders of the Osmothèque Versailles|