E: Since Paul Parquet era up to now which are to you the main milestones that have outlined modern perfumery history?
|Coty Emeraude (1941)|
In a certain way François Coty did the same making perfume accessible to people. He did even more, he invented many of the classical themes in perfumery and got the credit to house them in beautiful Lalique bottles finally available to everyone's reach. Guerlain finished the job started with Coty polishing his fragrances: l'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Shalimar can be considered as a matter of fact polished versions of L'Origan, Chypre and Emeraude.
Despite not being important for the public, Elsa Schiaparelli Shocking is noteworthy from an industrial point of view because it was the first fragrance not made in house but made to order by a manufacturer.
Youth Dew by Estee Lauder has been really important for the US market: first of all the fragrance was launched as a bath oil and only later released as an eau de toilette. This allowed initially to unscrew the cap and dirty your fingers with the fragrance, easily smell it in a way related to cleanliness with a totally new gesture. This brought perfume to the people for the first time in America. Then in the seventies we must mention Charlie that was a great marketing success because it was proposed as a lifestile scent, for the sexually free and independent woman. It was the first perfume women bought by themselves while before men used to buy them as a gift.
E: Oh yes, I remember Charlie, the fragrance was terrible
|Christian Dior Poison (1985)|
|Mugler Angel (1992)|
R: Certainly the launch of Tom Ford Private Blend line . He's an influential person with a strong image coming from the fashion system that decided to create fragrances also using naturals. This made his name to become a strong appeal for people to get back to the origins of perfumery in some way bringing it back to its true sense. Moreover it's not by chance he did it with a fragrance collection, a concept that's become very important. Internet gave people access to information thanks to many resources like you bloggers, forums, online magazines. Now they are more conscious about what they buy so the idea of having a collection tailored by a creator makes them more confident to chose what suits them from the collection.