28 ottobre 2012

Jul et Mad: Amour de Palazzo

Minuetto (1756) - Giandomenico Tiepolo
Amour de Palazzo
Jul et Mad speak about a masqued ball in Venice as an inspiration, of the complicity of two lovers playing under the masks and losing themselves through wine and love till dawm.
The first think that comes up to the nose is the very spicy opening ruled by black pepper wth its balsamic freshness, the medicinal smell of clove and above all the gold powderiness of nutmeg that shine thanks to the amazing natural essences from Robertet. These spices imported from Byzance granted the fortune of Serenissima since the XV century and have become part of the most refined dishes of its traditional culinary art together with another oriental element, sweet and sour that often is present also in the ambery accord thanks to the mix of sweet and savoury. These are the smells of the rich cookery of celebrations that coupled with the licorice topnote of labdanum bring a non-gourmand yet edible vibe. Amour de Palazzo is a classic spicy amber bringing olfactory material not just from the dishes, but from the whole prepared dining room. Shady smooth patchouly becomes a wooden chair covered in fine leather given by violet leaves, Atlas cedarwood and castoreum. The fine porcelain of powdery musks pays hommage also to the ladies cheeks with a cosmetic hint. Waxed wood floors and the fatty smell of candles and smoke fill the air and mute the animalic voice of oud. Despite being known since millennia in the East yet discovered from western noses only a few more than a decade ago, oud has become just one of the colours from the perfumer's palette and here it brings a contemporary sensuality preventing by a hair's breadth the scent to become trop classique.

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