Inside the preview of my Scent Diary for Pitti Fragranze I already told you about Mito, the latest fragrance from the swiss perfumer Vero Kern launched exactly one year ago during a press event in a hot afternoon. While speaking and sniffing Mito, I remember Vero's effortless elegance wearing a white suit, sunglasses and the glamour detail of a leopard print silk scarf. Her style doesn't follow fashion trends and first of all wears personality making every other garnment just a refined accessory. What strikes though it's her liveliness, that tireless creativity that's able to take inspiration from a picture or a piece of music, from a book or from one of her many journeys. Frau Vero's art starts with extraits, so after launching a true green-florar chypre like we haven't seen any in more than a decade, it was worth waiting to write a review. Beauty takes her time but finally I have in my hands a sample of Mito extrait de parfum. Let me spray and enjoy.
The language of this talented seventy-year old woman emerges from the great perfumery of the past but speaks with an unmistakable timbre and a contemporary colour. Mito comes out from a walk through Villa d'Este gardens in Tivoli, with the sprinkling fountains and the paths under the blooming magnolias spreading their fragrance to the sun of June. Where the eau de parfum is the dawn in a place taking you back to childhood where everything is unconscious and unique, the extrait de parfum is the dusk, a moment of languishing flowers when the blue lays down on the warm earth unfolding its aroma from inside.
Since then Vero already disclosed to me Mito extrait de parfum would have been a completely different story. I love this approach to pure perfume like it used to be once upon a time, almost like a serial: the different concentration are not reissues from pocket-edition to leather-bound edition, but a crescendo to the climax of parfum. Smelling the eau de parfum I immediately got a reference to Ma Griffe's crisp galbanum, slightly drawn here to its hiacynth shades. Bergamot and lemongrass make it as sparkling as the brightness of Cristalle. It's a morning dew falling on the grass and on the milky petals whispered by magnolia grandiflora and magnolia champaca absolute.
The sweet jasmin is replaced by tuberose absolute, the same winking in Rubj that here plays hide-and-seek through the foliage, into the monstruous gorges calling you in her hoarse voice. Art doesn't come by chance and the eighth one makes no exception and only who knows its secrets is able to mould the tuberose camphoraceous brutality sliding it into the citrussy magnolia without smashing the elegance of this accord Yves Saint Laurent would have loved (do you remenber the first Y?). Its earthiness is also the most exciting invitation to the basenote with cedarwood, patchouli and moss and highlights the bitterness of a pinch of vetiver that's a must for a first-class chypre. Moreover its creamy sensuality improves sillage and lasting power amplifying the velvety peach showing its guerlainesque curves in the shade.
Where Mito eau de parfum is the wearable chic of a white suit winning with its cheerfulness, the extrait de parfum is the leopard touch where you can clearly recognize Vero's hand adding the hidden eroticism that only people who stepped into masterpieces like Patou's Que Sais-Je know.
Vero Kern as seen by Francesca Faruolo
Villa d'Este fountains from Villa d'Este official website
Mito illustrated by Sofo Berdzenishvili