Fragranze 11: Scent Diary #3

L'Artisan Parfumeur

A completely different packaging guests the new line Explosions d'Emotions officially launched at Fragranze. After twenty years from the very rare collection Sautes d'Humeur by Olivia Giacobetti, the in-house perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour takes again inspiration from moods, this time en deux. Amour Nocturne is the fragrance among the three that most thrilled me for its innovation. After making love, the night smells of just chopped cedarwood leaking sap and milk, dashed by savoury caramel and gun powder to balance it. Unexpected, like a firework.

La Parfumerie Moderne

All begins from an ancient forgotten palace on the lake side with ruined ceilings and dusty furniture. In a bedside table, Philippe Neirinck finds a perfume flask, maybe left by an indian princess. He opens it and lilac blooms in the air, redolent of springs from long time ago. Collaborating with Marc Antoine Corticchiato he founded La Parfumerie Moderne, inspired by the early XX century great french perfumery but looking to the future. The most interesting? Of course Désarmant, a very elegant full blooming lilac with its spicy-powdery accents. A must sniff as soon as possible.

Perris Montecarlo

Aside the come back of lilac, at Fragranze we've seen iris and rose are still cherished. Gian Luca Perris devotes to rose its last adventure, a journey to Taif, to the heart of this flower deeply rooted in the middle-eastern culture. Rose de Taif is like diving into roses at morning, feathered by fresh dewy petals recalling the sparkle of lemon. As invigorating is the opening, as mellow si the base with the soft embrace of turkish rose. Nice also the black and gold packaging, precious yet elegant.

Parfums Volnay

In 1919 Germaine Madeline Duval, who worked for Coty, founded Parfums Volnay. The symbol of the house is a blackberry bush in perfect Art Nouveau style, maybe because of the powdery rose with blackberry hints which was her olfactory signature. Madame's heritage revives nowadays in six fragrances that Amelie Bourgeois reinterpreted starting from the original formulas now deposited at the Osmothèque. Perlerette and Brume d'Hiver tempted me to try them on skin. A soft, rosy iris the first, a spicy-winey wood the second. For a jump in the debut du siècle parisian chic, skillfully mixing modernity and heritage.