23 maggio 2018

Accademia del Profumo Awards 2018

I am pleased to share here this report also published a few days ago on Çafleurebon.
For the second year in a row, I’ve had the honor of being invited to attend the prestigious Accademia del Profumo Awards which was held May 15, 2018 (think of it as the Italian equivalent of the Fragrance Foundation Awards). To highlight perfumery as art, creativity and craftsmanship, each time the organization takes care in choosing the location for the ceremony, and this time the Accademia del Profumo Awards 2018 gala was held at the monumental temple of the cutting-edge contemporary art: the Pirelli Hangar Bicocca.

Giorgia Surina via Accademia del Profumo©
Set in a post industrial site risen from the ‘20s to the ‘60s to test high-power great machines, with its 9500 square meters and 30 meters height this ex-hangar is now the cathedral that’s become famous for hosting Anselm Kiefer’s permanent installation The seven heavenly palaces.
Just think how amazing is to having dinner with the stars of perfumery in front of such huge work. Moreover this event is important to reconnect with all the Italian and international Fragrance market players (brands, distribution and writers) and to score guests from arts, culture and show business. Since the best masculine and feminine perfumes of the year are chosen by consumers (about 162.000 votes were collected salespoints in 2018) this is also useful to keep track of the trends and tastes in the Italian mass market.

Luciano Bertinelli e Giulia Bevilacqua
via Accademia del Profumo©
The Accademia del Profumo Awards 2018 Gala was attended by Accademia del Profumo president Luciano Bertinelli (who’s also Salvatore Ferragamo Parfums CEO) together with actress Giorgia Surina who was dressed in a refined light pink tulle dress. While pointing out the strong commitment Accademia del Profumo takes in spreading perfume culture, he also introduced next year’s challenge.
Rising from the collaborationwith Cosmetica Italia (the Italian Cosmetics Companies association) and Cosmoprof (the Italian Cosmetics main show), the exhibition “Leonardo Genius and Beauty” will celebrate the love for beauty and wellness that marked the work of the Tuscan genius and his time.

Alberto Morillas, Aurelien Guichard, Sophie Labbé, Cecile Matton, Antoine Maisondieu, Veronique Nyberg, Luca Maffei, Antoine Lie (left to right)
Fun moments at the Accademia del Profumo Awards 2018 began with the award for the best packaging handed to the winner by the irreverent Apulian painter Paolo Troilo. The technical jury which assigns most of the prizes, awarded best masculine and feminine packaging respectively Yves Saint Laurent Y for men and Hermès Twilly. Best masculine perfume award went to the leathery Daniela Andrier and Antoine Maisondieu’s Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Parfum while the feminine counterpart was given to Alberto Morillas heady floral Gucci Bloom. Special acknowledgement was given to all the perfumers attending (among them Antoine Lie, Veronique Nyberg, Luca Maffei, Aurelien Guichard and Cécile Matton).
Firmenich Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas was the brightest star shining at the Accademia del Profumo Awards 2018 Gala and I felt so honored I could talk to him and also ask about the creation of Gucci Bloom.

I always start from scratch when composing a perfume, there’s no ready-made thinking. In this case while I tried to enter the world of Alessandro Michele, I was going to India for the harvest of jasmine sambac. While smelling the blossoms, I realized closed flowers smelled very different from the ones in full bloom. So I decided to change the process and asked for two separated extractions which I mixed for this very feminine sillage” replied Morillas.

con Alberto Morillas
You can tell the floral trend is now in full bloom also in the mass market as a special award was given to Olivier Polge (who unfortunately couldn’t attend) for Gabrielle Chanel that’s been the best-selling perfume during the first six months from its launch in 2017. A special VIP Jury composed among the others by painter Paolo Troilo, actress Giulia Bevilacqua and the designer Francesca Versace (Santo Versace’s daughter) awarded Chanel Gabrielle for the best advertising campaign featuring actress Kristen Stewart. Best exclusive perfume by a big brand went to the spiced muskiness of Armani Privé Iris Céladon while Tuberose in Blue by Altaia gained the prize for the best niche perfume.

Dall'invito all'addobbo floreale della cena, il rosso segna il Premio 2018
Accademia del Profumo Awards 2018 WINNERS

Consumer’s choice

  • Best feminine perfume of the year: Narciso Rodriguez For Her Fleur Musc (Sonia Constant)
  • Best masculine perfume of the year: Dior Homme Sport (François Demachy)

Technical Jury

  • Best feminine perfume: Gucci Bloom (Alberto Morillas)
  • Best masculine perfume: Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Parfum (Antoine Maisondieu, Daniela Andrier)
  • Best feminine perfume made in Italy: Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina in fiore (Emilie Coppermann)
  • Best masculine perfume made in Italy: Trussardi Riflesso (Veronique Nyberg)
  • Best feminine packaging: Hermès Twilly
  • Best masculine packaging: Y pour homme by Yves Saint Laurent
  • Best Exclusive perfume by a big brand: Armani Privé Iris Céladon (Marie Salamagne)
  • Best Niche perfume: Tuberose in Blue by Altaia – Eau d’Italie

VIP Jury

  • Best feminine Advertising Campaign: Gabrielle Chanel
  • Best masculine Advertising Campaign: Acqua di Parma Colonia Pura

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