|Christian Dior with Ermond and Thérèse Roudnitska in 1955*|
|Dior vintage lily of the valley hat|
Despite many use to label it as a soliflore, Diorissimo is far more than a lily of the valley scent and goes from the bright green top to the bucolic heart showing muguet in glory with hints of honeyed rose, saucy lilac and carnal jasmin. The base is light and just holds the floral trail with sandalwood, musks and a touch of oakmoss giving it a slightly chypre echo.
In 1956 when this green youthful juice smelling so natural despite its 80% synthetic formula was launched, it was so groundbreaking that it became instantly a hit. Thinking about olfaction, Roudnitska understood that redundance and too intense notes saturate the nose and can't be smelled. so they're a waste of raw materials. On the contrary light notes are amplyfied to smell them better. Keeping these rules in mind he made of Diorissimo the manifesto of a modern composing style, cleansed from the excesses of kilometric formulae that will be his olfactory signature. It makes me so sad to think nowadays eau de toilette got killed by IFRA and not due to a natural but to a sintetic: hydroxycitronellal that's one of the main components rendering that amazing green-rosy lily of the valley impression and now limited to no more than 1% of the formula. Neither Francois Demachy with his recently launched eau de parfum has succeded in giving a pale memory of its original grace. By now I enjoy my vintage bottle but I regret a bit every drop I put on: one day I will be left alone with my fantasy in a fairy garden with unicorns and ladies.
* Photo credit Art et Parfum