12 aprile 2013

Esxence 2013: stars rain (3)

My walk through the stars of Esxence starts again from three stars, the Acampora ones printed on Volubilis. The fragrance that takes its name from an ancient roman town in Morocco is the eighth essence (aside the co-branded Bianco and Nero) joining the classic scented oils launched at the end of the '70s that made Bruno Acampora famous. Chapeau to Brunello Acampora that chose to stay true to his father's heritage launching Volubilis in oil formulation: maybe a risk in these times but also a strong statement from who doesn't need to invent a heritage because he nourishes it with passion since ever.
The fragrance is a beautiful aromatic floral taking May rose from Morocco to plunge it in the morning light of a green bouquet. Bergamot and pink pepper light up the topnotes with a sparkling salty touch giving way to the pungent freshness of peppermint, that along with rose is the main theme of the perfume. The floral heart emerges at first covered in shining dew to warm up and turn more honeyed and sensual later. A whiff of ambery patchouli and musks melts like oily sap on the skin leaving a natural, roguish aura in perfect Acampora style. To be enjoyed on tanned skin as I guess it will give its best during the warm season.

Interesting star it's dedicated to men the newborn fragrance from Keiko Mecheri. Aside enjoying the beautiful installation Keiko created to celebrate the Trio Loukhoum among which there's my favourite Parfum du Soir, I had the chance to smell Savile. The fragrance takes ispiration from Savile Row, an institutional place since the nineteenth century for men's bespoke tailoring in London boasting clients from Churchill to Jude Law (it's not by chance Jules Verne places Phileas Fogg's house in 7 Savile Row). Elegance and manliness are translated here with a tribute to the late '70s-early '80s great aromatic fougères painted in sage green and silver grey. The opening is a fruity, crisp grapefruit-like accord coupled with cold spices, cardamome and pepper carrying ahead the bright greeness of lavender and sage. The heart grows getting mellow thanks to the roundness of jasmin and a smooth suede illusion enhancing the powderness of the base. Cumarine and vanilla soften the drydown empowered by a modern woody-ambery accord with vetiver and the dry incensey silkness of cashmeran and musks. Refined like a silk twill tie.

Another quite masculine star is Infinito by Nobile 1942: the name itself suggests the Leopardi's famous hedge and the maquis hills scattered with cypresses and verdicchio vines between the mount Conero and the coast. Far from being severe, here cypress is the main theme of this woody chypre cheerful as a sunny day in June with bergamot, mugweed and geranium over the elegance of a solid cedarwood and vetiver accord joined by a pinch of olibanum resinoid adding mystery. The passion and uncompromising taste Massimo and Stefania Nobile have put in developing such a challenging theme are two more reasons for enjoying this fragrance. Surely heat will help cypress showing more and more its balsamic side standing out over the suggestive shade of these fragrant hills. Finally another news at Nobile is the Exceptional Edition of Ponte Vecchio extrait de parfum with a higher concentration exalting the contrast between rosewood aromatic brightness and the warm, powdery woody base.
Let me give you as a post scriptum some stardust with a few more notes I will discuss later on.
Thanks to my dear friend Sergey Borisov (Fragrantica, Vogue Russia) I had the chance to talk with Thomas Fontaine, the current inhouse perfumer at Jean Patou and he confirmed during the fall they probably will be reissuing Patou pour homme which has still so many fans around (me included) together with a brand new "very Patou" floral perfume with rose and jasmin, keeping as much as possible high the heritage of Jean Patou. Let's keep fingers crossed!
Last but not least, I had a sneak preview of the next Aedes de Venustas perfume but I can't say anything more but that's lovely.  I promised, I am a good boy after all.

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