25 maggio 2016
The flesh of white flowers and the finest leather definitely possess something human. Discovering a tuberose forgotten in a leather bag still releases its cuir narcotique trail after an exotic trip to Africa sounds like a dirty love affair in perfumery. That's everything about Adjatay (meaning Prince in Cameroon's languages) the latest beautiful fragrance developed by The Different Company creative director Luc Gabriel and Drom Fragrances perfumer Alexandra Monet.
Tinder which means sparkle in Sweedish language was firstly released a few years ago by independend perfumer Spyros Drosopoulos under the label Magnetic Scent. Now it has been revived with extra brightness and depth thanks to the minty spiciness of buchu leaves cutting through the soapy florals and the smooth powdery base. "When I first smelled buchu Leaves I thought it was so complex and exploding, just like a sparkle so I immediately thought it was the lacking element in Tinder" says Spyros. Just like rays of sunlight in a spring dewy morning.
Another big hit at Esxence was the colorful tropical explosion of Still Life in Rio that takes the peppery zest of Still Life, who whips off its shirt and tie, to wear flip flops, colorful tie-dye Bermuda shorts and a straw hat. Juicy passion fruit, yuzu and tasty guava shaken by creative director Céline Verleure and Firmenich perfumer Dora Baghriche-Arnaud (who also concocted the original Still Life) make Still Life in Rio smell like a party you never want to end.
"Set your life on fire. Seek those who fan your flames". That's the Rumi line that inspired Mert Güzel and Murat Katran to create what to my nose is the best scent of the line, Fan your flames. Not only it bears the coolest abstract name avoiding any obvious reference to a specific raw material. While keeping the trademark easygoing style, it also spans the widest spectrum of sensations ranging from the boozy freshness of rhum plus some greenery to the exotic coconut-tobacco blend you can smell in hookah clubs waving through people having fun dipped in blue lights.
Starting from their own Country, Australia, Miranda Kerr and Joyce Lanigan founder and CEO of Raw Spirit took inspiration from the local unusual plants to build up together with Firmenich perfumer Henri Fremont and Michel Roudnitska an amazing roadtrip scent diary. After Australia the trip continues as they fell in love with the United States and Asia. Be sure to check out my fave, Desert Blush featuring the unusual citrus-herbal floralcy of boronia.
What a mystery beauty is cereus, a cactus that resembles nothing more than a dead bush most of the year. But for one midsummer's night each year, its exqusitely scented flower opens as night falls, then closes forever with the first rays of the morning sun. The same fugacity seems to have been applied by Fabrice Pellegrin (who recently joined Firmenich) to the woody-leathery facests Madagascan vanilla, morphed here by the night breeze of a peppery hedione blast to the surreal waxed suede bloom of Cierge de Lune.
I was very happy to see again in Milan the Paris-based Japanese Perfumer Miya Shinma with the unspoken refinement of her creations. Her maniac care for details in blending olfactory haikus now adds also a special presentation that won't disappoint Japan lovers. In fact all the scents now come also in the classic black laquer case wrapped in a special hand-made oki-shaped precious kimono silk. I smelled again my favourite, the exquisite Tsubaki, a dramatic camellia that never ceases to bring me to the world of Sei Shōnagon's Pillow Book.