1 ottobre 2015

Pitti Fragranze 13: Scent Diary #2

Nanban is the name samourai originally gave to foreigners coming from the south coasts of the island. Carlos Huber, left his architect's club and the mexican colonial atmospheres, lands as a barbarian of the south to Japan. He brings with himself a load of black pepper, smoked black tea and exotic woods softened by  Rodrigo Flores Roux into an ambery sunset with balsams and osmanthus. For barbarian gentlemen.

I am taken by an idyll at the booth of Ineke Ruhland: together with the creator and Marika Vecchiattini we have fun going through the raw materials in Idyllwild as they'd be snapshots of a coast to coast trip. Route 66 is bordered with snapped rhubharb stalks, rock flowers, cypresses and hay, buffalos and bonfire remains at dawn. Very particular is the use of a sagebrush oil which reminded me the ferruginous greness of spinach over an animalic background. Together with Jack+Jackie, a boozy Daiquiri vanilla inspired by President Kennedy cocktails at the White House, Idyllewild represents a new chapter of Ineke's olfactory library. Perfect for people living on the road.

Naomi Goodsir
La part des anges is the name perfumers give to the part of a flower smell burned during the extraction process. Green, powdery, muted floral, Iris Cendré is la part des humains, iris ashes, cedarwood embers and velvet shreds. Naomi Goodsir speaks about what's left after the flame has gone: crumpled bed sheets drenched in Bois d'Ascese and Cuir Velours, purple petals on the floor and naked bodies in the gloom sketched by Julien Rasquinet with a wisp of smoke. For hermeticist poets in dove-coloured garnments.

Holographic elegance out of he lab: the best synthetics highlighted by reflections of nature as a way to find a new canon of beauty. Post-molecular perfumery finally has landed on Earth. Karl Bradl (founder of Aedes de Venustas in 1995) and Carlos Quintero (fashion and interior designer) launch four eau de parfum: iri_del (iris aldehyde), orb_ital (orbitone) created by Patricia Choux of Takasago while  efflor_esce (paradisone) and addr_ett (helvetolide) created by Patrick Voelkl rely on two aromachemicals from Firmenich. My favorite perfectly follows the trend, efflor_esce to get lost in the floral cybercloud.

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