15 marzo 2011

Zeta: a linden blossom theme
The collectible linden by Andy Tauer

"Linden shade in June
Sweet rose petals and the light
of Syracusa"

The first news I want to share from all the ones I've smelled in Rome at the Campomarzio 70 event is a fragrance I've followed step by step excited during its creation. Yes, because Andy Tauer is like his last creature, sunny, spontaneous and in his blog he loves to share with his readers his thoughts while he composes something.
I'm speaking about Zeta (like the greek letter), a linden blossom theme that's also the first one of a new like for Tauer Perfumes, the "Collectibles" means low volume perfumery, limited by the availability of raw materials that may change from year to year.
This, confesses Andy allows him to create and present perfumes that he otherwise could not, simply because he cannot guarantee that he'll always be able to make them. The collectibles will be housed in the classic pentagonal 50ml bottle but in green glass with a silver label. It's particular also the choice of a single letter to name the fragrance characterized not by a pyramid but by an haiku, essence worthy of such olfactory poem.

Me, Andy Tauer and Lady in Black at Campomarzio 70

For its style, the fragrance reminded me in some whay Andy's almost unfindable iris, but where Orris is all about ground and shade, Zeta is pure air and light. Main character of the composition is a very precious lindem blossom essencial oil extracted with carbon dioxide that infuses to the whole fragrance a warm light and a serenity that brings me back to sunsets in June, to the age of life you're thoughtless and breathing the smell of linden blooming you foretaste the light air of the forthcoming summer.
In many composition they're starting to use this new extraction technique so, since the results are surprising, I wanted to ask to Andy his thoughts about it.
Andy: "Absolutely amazing! For example, let's take the rose: there's rose absolute and rose oil. The first one is more honeyed, fruity, the second is greener and spicy. Carbon dioxide estraction allows to keep both aspects of the flower and to obtain something surprisingly natural".
In fact here linden blossom, which in some compositions tend to have harsh and pee-like, here is very smooth, true to the flower with a pollinic roundness alluding to linden honey. It's not by chance that Andy confesses this is the most expensive fragrance he has ever made, even more expensive than Orris, and you can feel it I dare to say, really breathtaking.

To embellish this radiant heart, there's a citrus chord in the opening, lemon, bergamot and mandarin, joined by petitgrain that makes you think to the tender little leaves at the base of the golden little umbrellas hanging from the linden trees. There's a whiff of mediterranean air, later comes the fresh evening breeze with the sparkling and dry aroma of neroli carrying with it the golden magic of linden blossom in the sunset. The more you inhale it, the more you want it: soul is invaded by it and it takes back in mind sweet memories, afternoons by bike along the avenues in the countryside and it puts a smile on your face without a reason. The fragrance ends with a silky pillow of bulgarian rose, quilted with sandalwood pearls softened by a vanilla feather, a floral and woody pillow where to lie for hours dedicating to yourself and forgetting for a while the hurry of the world.

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