26 settembre 2014

Fragranze 12: Scent Diary #2

Grossmith London
Chandeliers, beautiful florals, prepared tea rooms and the subtlest incens ever give in Sylvan Song a perfect rendering of the London tea temple experience. Simon and Amanda Brooke celebrate the fifth anniversary of the rebirth of Grossmith creating an exclusive fragrance for Fortnum&Mason. Revealing a sumptuous floral bouquet cheered up by citrus and the most ethereal and zesty facets of incense, the fragrance is all about the Grossmith style and really speaks of the charm of one of my cult places in London. "I'm really glad you say that. Sylvan Song is very special to us because it's our first exclusive fragrance and it will stay exclusive also in the future" tells me Amanda. Suited for who's looking for tradition, quality and the top english elegance.

Olivier Durbano
Prometeus, mythologic titan who stole fire from the Gods and hidden it in a fennel stem to bring it as a gift to humans is the inspiration behind Prométhée, Olivier Durbano's tenth fragrance. The bittersweet fennel, something across vegetable, fruit and spice opens the mediterranean melody getting then more mellow thanks to unusual florals with powdery balsamic tones of myrrh, labdanum and styrax. Wandering from the prevous fragrances, Prométhé closes a cycle to start a new one, always with a wisp of smoke binding the jewel maker to the mith as Olivier explains: "Prometeus breaks free from the stone but makes of it the first ring of the human kind".

Baruti, gun powder in greek, is the new ripping line the inde creator Spyros Drosopoulos introduces at Fragranze 12. A bit of roughness is forgivable in comparison with the lavish facets of these perfumes. In a market flooded with real and fake oud, NOOUD hits the bull with a likely oud reconstruction that Spyros gives me to smell ironically saying: "There's not even a drop of it and it's the naked truth". NOOUD is also featured in the reorchestration of Indigo (ex Magnetic Scent) as a base to dress rose and hyacinth in a denser and more balanced accord. Hyperrealistic also Chai opposing the almost medicinal spices with a milky sensual base.

Parfumerie Générale
Pierre Guillaume, new hair cut, gascon smile and grittier look takes to Fragranze 12 Mojito Chypre, a refreshing cocktail to be served in the best bars à parfum. The perfumer pours in the glass mint leaves, brown sugar and a velvety chypre accord. Pestel at hand, he surprisingly replaces the classic lime with a slightly acid, yummy raspberry. The result is crisp, fruity yet showing a dry backtaste, such a fluorescent coloured drink to conjure up a pop rendition of the green fruity chypres from the '70s like Amazone.

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