Chanel Nº 19 (1971): 130 times Coco

"One cannot be forever innovating. I want to create classics" Coco Chanel



Coco fotografata da Willy Rizzo

If elegance had a smell, that would certainly be the scent of iris. It's simple because it comes from earth, it's precious because it takes a long process to extract it from iris pallida root and it conveys the grace of Canova's marbles and the tenuousness of georgette. Two fragrances led it shine most of all: Fath's Iris Gris (Vincent Roubert) and Chanel Nº 19. Thanks to a crazy amount of iris butter melt with a little more than a whiff of peach, the first romantically renders the rosy cheeks of a girl. Lean and classy in her immaculate muslin shirt, Nº 19 instead is a proud beauty sculpted by Henri Robert according to Coco's rule saying it is always better to be slightly underdressed to be elegant. That's exactly how it makes me feel, effortlessly chic, simply flawless.
More than 40 years have passed since that May 5th 1921 and Coco was determinated to launch a new great classic to celebrate the recovery of the fashion house. Headstrong like a perfect Leo, she worked on it going through difficulties and many trials and ended it only in 1970, few months before dying. Nº 19 is named after her birthday and today she would have been 130 years old therefore I'm going to wear it for a toast. Joyeux anniversaire Madamoiselle!

Penhaligon's Vaara (B. Duchaufour 2013)

Pensate ad una favola ambientata in Rajasthan, al confine indiano col Pakistan. Non sono mai stato in Rajasthan, ma dalle foto che ho visto me lo immagino di una bellezza da togliere il respiro, un paese dove l'aria è carica di profumi così intensi da restare impressi sui vestiti come pure nella mente.

Vaara è una bimba nata a Jodhpur, in un palazzo da sogno, ed è la gioia di suo nonno, Sua Altezza il Maharadja Gaj Singh II che ha voluto celebrare la sua nascita dedicandole un profumo, un'essenza che catturasse l'anima dei giardini esotici, dei mercati di spezie e stoffe sgargianti e il legame profondo della sua famiglia con la propria terra. Il saggio Maharadja commissionò la fragranza alla rinomata casa inglese di fragranze Penhaligon's che inviò a corte il mastro profumiere Messer Duchaufour per ricreare questo incanto. Viste le premesse favolose, potete immaginare come non stessi nella pelle dalla curiosità di sentire il risultato di quattro anni di lavoro.

Penhaligon's Vaara (B. Duchaufour 2013)

Think of a tale set in Rajasthan, at the indian frontier with Pakistan. I've never been to Rajasthan but from the pictures I've seen I imagine it as a breathless beauty, a land with such intense perfumes filling the air that's impossible to wash them off of your clothes as well as of your memory.

Vaara is a baby girl born in Jodhpur, in a dreamlike palace and she's the joy of her grandfather, His Highness the Maharadja Gaj Singh II who wanted to celebrate her birth with a perfume, an essence capturing the soul of the exotic gardens, the colorful spices and fabrics markets and his family's deep love and connection with his land. The wise Maharadja appointed the english renowned fragrance house Penhaligon's to make it, so they sent the master perfumer Sir Duchaufour to recreate this magic. Considering the extraordinary background, you can guess how much I was bursting with the curiosity to smell the result of four years of work.

Incensi Astier de Villatte: meditazioni estive

Che profumo hanno le vostre sere d'estate? Al mare, in campagna o ai monti, beato chi si sta godendo i profumi che la natura sprigiona la sera. Qualche settimana fa anche io mi stavo godendo i profumi intensi e selvaggi della Sardegna, ma son già tornato in città e ci resterò praticamente tutto il mese. Inevitabile lasciarsi prendere dalla voglia di avere in casa profumi di spazi aperti per viaggiare con la mente alla ricerca di frescura. Se d'inverno mi piace usare le candele, d'estate preferisco gli incensi perché li trovo perfetti per rinfrescare l'aria stando con le finestre aperte. Così in queste sere sto bruciando alcuni incensi giapponesi di Astier de Villatte presi nel mio ultimo viaggio parigino, bastoncini che scrivono per fumum storie di paesi lontani così suggestive che non potevo fare a meno di condividerle.

Astier de Villatte incenses: summer meditations

What's the smell of your summer nights? By the sea, in the countryside or at the mountain, lucky who's enjoying the nature and the perfumes it releases at evening. A few weeks ago I was enjoying the sardinian intense and wild perfumes myself but I'm already back in town and will spend most of the month here. Inevitable to be won by cravings for open spaces smells at home making your mind fly away looking for some chill. While I like burning candles during the winter, in summer I prefer incense as I find it perfect to clean the air coming from open windows. Therefore these evenings I'm burning some Astier de Villatte japanese incense sticks I bought in my last parisian trip. They write in the air per fumum such striking stories of faraway countries I couldn't help but sharing them with you.